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a5°<. 



THE ART OF 



DRESSMAKING 



AT 



Home and in the Workroom. 



Select Lessons [m Cutting; and Fitting Ladies' Garments as 

Taught in the Technical Schools of the French 

Government and the City of Paris. 

Classified and Arraftged by 

MADAME MARIE BOUDET. 



Part I. ,. . 



E. BOUDET, Editor and Proprietor, 

MONTREAL. 



JThis work has been approved hy the Catholic Committee of the Council of Public 
Instruction of the Province of Quebec. 



ST. ALBANS, VT.: 

MESSENGER CO. FKINT. 

■ 1903. 



^' 



V 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 

Two CopldS KfcCclVKl 

SEP 23 1903 

I ^Copyiight Entry 

CLASS <X KX& N ' 
I COPY B. 



Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1903, by E. Boudet, in the office 
of Librarian of Congress, at Washington. ~ 



Entered according to Act of Parliament of Canada, in the year 1903, by E. Boiidet, 
in the Department of Agriculture. 



rj. 



o 



9M'^' 



INTRODUCTION. 



I ^WENTY years of experience at dress making has taught me 
all the diflQculties and drawbacks encountered by every 
woman in the cutting and making of garments the confection of 
which is often a mental and physical strain. Many systems have 
been devised to assist them, among them the series of paper pat- 
terns that are published every season to follow fashion's whims. 
These are some help but they do not give entire satisfaction^ 
despite the different systems introduced, including a series of 
drawings divided and graduated to measure an approximative fit 
for all sizes of garments, from the child's to the matrons. These 
also have proved unsatisfactory to the dressmaker and to the 
amateur, whose aim should be perfection. 

At last I have found a method, the explanation of which will 
form the subject of this simple treatise. By giving to this modest 
work all the attention it requires any woman can obtain astonish- 
ing results. At the outset I do not claim authorship, it is the 
work of a French woman, Madame Alice Guerke, who stands at 
the head of all the technical schools of France. To convmce the 
public of this, let it be said that the author oversees, personally, 
all the work done in the following schools : " Des pupiles de la 
Seine," de la ville de Paris and at the school " Elisa Lemon- 
ier." She is also principal of the sewing and cutting academy 
under control of the seventh ward municipality in the city of 
Paris. Amongst the competitors at the Paris exhibition of 1900 
Madame Guerre had the honor of carrying off the only gold 



medal awarded for this class of work. The lessons contained in 
this method are based on fundamental rules which are easily 
applied by the pupil to any change or fancy that Dame Fashion 
may dictate. The salient features of this method are the geomet- 
rical principles upon which it is founded. Geometry being a 
positive science will give positive results. Take the tailors 
whose method of cutting is based on these principles ; how sel- 
dom they are obliged to correct their work. Owing to the great 
simplicity of the metric system it will be used in measuring. 
Whoever will give this method a fair trial will soon be convinced 
of its merits, and by its use the difficulties in cutting and fitting 
will be entirely obviated. 

MARIE BOUDET. 



ELEMENTARY NOTIONS OF GEOMETRY NECESSARY 

TO THE PERFECT KNOWLEDGE OF THIS 

METHOD OF DRESS MAKING. 

TO obtain the pattern of all ladies' garments, this method is 
based on the perimeter of a rectangle, the size of which is 
determined by the measurements taken of the person on which 
the garment is to be fitted. By this method, in a very short time, 
any one can obtain good results but it is absolutely necessary to 
understand the value of each line composing a pattern, and to this 
end I will introduce a few elementary rules of geometry. 

THE LINES. 

A Line is a length without any width or thickness, it is 
space considered on a single dimension. 

A Point is the extremity of a line or the intersection of two 
lines. The point has no dimension whatever, it is shown by a dot 
and indicated by a letter of the alphabet. 

There are different lines, the straight line, the curved and 
the broken line. 

The Straight L^ne is the shortest distance between two 
points, it has all its points in the same direction and is indicated 
by two letters, one at each end A B & C D, (fig. 1). 

According to its position a straight line is either vertical, 
horizontal or oblique. 

A line is vertical when it follows the course of a stone or a 
weight falling to the ground. The sides of a house, of a door, of 
a window are vertical, (fig. 5.) The horizontal line, as its name 
indicates is a line that follows the horizon or to put it more clearly, 
that follows the level of still water, (lig. 6.) 

When a horizontal line meets a vertical line they form a right 
angle and these two lines are always perpendicular. However 
two lines can be perpendicular and not be vertical or horizontal 
see H I & E F, (fig. 7). 



The Art of Dress Making. 



An oblique line is a straight line that has none of the above 
positions, that is, neither horizontal nor vertical, (fig. 1.) 

The Curve is a line that has not all its points in the same 
direction as the lines A B & C D, (fig. '2.) 

There are curves that are regular and that can easily be 
drawn with a compass as a circumference, others are irregular 
and can be drawn only by free hand. The curves in a pattern 
are generally irregular and demand a certain ability in drawing 
with no other instrument than a pencil. 

THE ANGLES. 

An angle is the opening between two straight lines that meet 
at a point named vertex. Those two straight lines are the sides 
of the angle, the point of intersection is the vertex. When an 
angle is alone it is indicated by a letter of the alphabet placed at 
the vertex. 

When two or more angles have a common vertex each is in- 
dicated by three letters calling the one at the vertex the second. 

The value of an angle depends on the space there is between 
its two sides and not on their length. There are three sorts of 
angles, the right angle, the acute angle and the obtuse angle. 

An angle is called " right angle " when its sides are perpen- 
dicular. 

An " acute angle " is less than a right angle. 

An " obtuse angle " is greater than a right angle BAG, 
(fig. 8.) 

When two angles have a common side they are called adja- 
cent see B A D and D A C (fig. 7.) 

POLYGONS. 

We call plan a plane surface on which a straight line can be 
drawn in all directions, the face of a mirror, of a board are plane 
surfaces whatever their position. 

We call a figure a part of a plan determined by lines, straight 
or curved. 

All figures limited by straight lines are named polygons. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



Polygon means many angles. 

The perimeter of a figure is the whole length of the lines 
forming the outline of that figure. 

The perimeter is a line and not a surface or plan. 

A regular polygon is one having all its angles and sides 
equal. 

A diagonal is a straight line that joins the opposite angles of 
a polygon. 

There are different sorts of polygons. 

The three sided polygon is a triangle. 

The four sided polygon is a quadrilateral. 

The five sided polygon is a pentagon. 

The six sided polygon is a hexagon. 

The eight sided polygon is an octagon. 

If there is a greater number of sides, the word polygon is 
used with the number of sides prefixed as a ten sided polygon, 
eleven sided polygon. 

TRIANGLES. 

The triangle is a three sided polygon or more clearly a poly- 
gon with three angles. 

There are different sorts of triangles, the equilateral triangle, 
the isosceles triangle, the scalene triangle and the rectangle 
triangle. 

The equilateral triangle is one which has its three sides equal 
in length and its three angles also equal, A O B fig. 10. 

The isosceles triangle has only two of its sides equal BAG 
fig. 9. 

The scalene triangle has all its sides unequal BAD fig. 12. 

The rectangle triangle is composed of a right angle and two 
acute angles. 

The side opposite the right angle is the hypothenuse of the 
triangle. In the figure 10 the line A D is the hypothenuse of 
the triangle A O D. 



The Art of Dress flaking. 



QUADRILATERALS. 

The quadrilateral is a four sided polygon, it has also four 
angles and is sometimes called quadrangle. 

The quadrilaterals are the square, the rectangle and the 
parallelogram. 

The square is a quadrangle having its four sides equal also 
its four angles A B C D fig. 10. 

The diagonals of a square are equal and perpendicular. 

The rectangle is a quadrilateral figure in which the opposite 
sides are equal and parallel ; the four angles are right angles — A 
B C D fig 11, as in the square the diagonals are equal. 

The parallelogram is a quadrilateral figure having its oppo- 
site sides parallel, two and two, and consequently equal but the 
angles are not right angles. 

CIRCUMFERENCES. 

The circumference is a curve having all its points equally 
distant of a same point called center, fig. 13. 

The surface included inside a circumference is called circle. 

That is to say the circumference is a line and a circle is a 
surface. 

The radius is a straight line going from the center to the 
circumference, A D fig. 13. 

The diameter is a straight line passing at the center and 
stopping on each side at the circumference B C fig. 13. 

The arc is a part of the circumference, fig. 14. 

The string is the line joining the extremeties of an arc, C B 
fig. 14. 

The arrow is a perpendicular line raised in the middle of a 
string and stopping at the circumference A D fig. 14. 

TOOLS REQUIRED FOR THE TRACING OF PATTERNS. 

For the tracmg of patterns very few tools are required. A 
tape measure, a pencil, a ruler, and a bevel will be sufficient but 
sometimes a T and a compass are added. The tape measure is a 



The Art of Dress Making. 



ribbon of supple and unshrinkable material, it is generally lm50 
long and is divided into centimetres and millimetres. It is used 
to take measurements on the person as it can be adapted to the 
figure. The pencil used must be neither of soft or hard lead but 
of medium hardness, it must be sharpened to a fine point and 
should never be moistened. 

When sketching a pattern always draw light lines as heavy 
ones are difficult to erase, for instance in drawing an irregular 
curve use your pencil very lightly till the proper shape is attained 
so as to erase easily when corrected, accentuate the correct line 
by passing the pencil over it taking care that this line be of the 
same width all through. 

The ruler is used to draw straight lines, it is a long rect- 
angle made either of wood, ivory or metal, it is usually divided 
in centimetres and millimetres and it is very useful in measuring 
and dividing straight lines into equal lengths, fig. 15. 

The bevel is a rectangular triangle, it gives the opening of a 
right angle, it is used to raise perpendiculars ; just as is the ruler 
it is made of wood, metal or ivory, fig. 15. The T is used as a 
ruler and a bevel combined on the drawing board. 

The compass is used to trace regular curves or parts of 
curves, also to mark on a line any length its opening may em- 
brace. 

THE METRE AND ITS SUBDIVISIONS. 

This is not the place to make a close study of the metric sys- 
tem but it is necessary to explain to all employing this method 
the value of the metre and its subdivisions.^ 

The technical definition of the metre is the following: The 
metre is the ten millionth part of the quadrant {%) of the meri- 
dian. 

A meridian is a fictitious line running around the earth pass- 
ing by the poles and cutting the equator at a right angle. 

Then the fourth of a meridian is the space there is between 
the poles and the equator measured on this line called meridian. 



S^rHi^Kr Line 
A » C 




VerKcal hne. 




9 
45 



Curved Line 



Fig-Z 



Horizon fat Line 



Fs.6 



3rokcn Line 




Ri.3 



rerpeneJi'cular Line 




%7 



Parallel Lme 
B 




OLtw&e -Acute A"^- 




f:s.8 




R^.9 




Rectangle 
A B 



Parallelogram 

A B 



r.di 



X) c 

UI2 




Arc-SfrlnJ -Arrow 



Kulcr - B evel 

I * I 




Ro.li 



f:..i4 



f;<.i5 



f:vI6 



The Art of Dress Making. 11 



Then suppose this line divided in ten milHons of equal parts, each 
of these parts will be a metre. 

We will set aside the multiples of the metre as we have no 
need of them and confine ourselves to the study of its subdivi- 
sions. The metre is divided in ten equal parts called decimetres. 
The decimetre is in turn divided in ten equal parts called centi- 
metres and the centimetre in ten equal parts called millimetres, 
that is to say the metre contains ten decimetres, hundred centi- 
metres and a thousand millimetres. In other words again the 
millimetre is the Jihousandth of a metre the hundredth of a deci- 
metre and the tenth of a centimetre. The centimetre is the hun- 
dredth of a metre and the tenth of a decimetre and the decimetre 
is the tenth of a metre. 

One of the great advantages of the metric system is that all 
its subdivision are adapted to the decimal system and conse- 
quently are very easily figured out, their position in writing tells 
the value of each figure, as an example, if we have to write a 
length of one metre, three decimetres, nine centimetres and five 
millimetre we will put it down as 1,395 taking care to separate 
the units by a comma. 

These few notions will be useful for the understanding of the 
following lessons and for this reason they are placed at the begin- 
ning of this work. M. B. 



12 



The Art of Dress Makitig. 



AN INFANT'S TROUSSEAU. 

A new-born child's wardrobe is composed of a great many 
different garments. Each of these can be made as elaborate as a 
mother's love may desire and there is no rule nor fashion for 
their trimming and finishing. But for their shapes and sizes 
there are fundamental rules that must be followed in the making 
of their patterns. 

I will give the pattern of all the principal pajts of a trousseau, 
laying aside the unnecessary ones or those that can be cut out of 
designs already given. 

infant's chemise and stays. 




The little chemise is generally made 
of light and soft material such as cam- 
bric, lawn or muslin and it is worn 
right next to the skin. The stays are 
worn over the chemise and are made 
of thicker and warmer materials, such 
as flannel or flanalette. Both garments 
are cut on the same pattern, but it 
will be easily understood that a little 

more material must be allowed for the seams in the stays. The 

difference varies with the thickness of the material used. 

The infant's chemise is made in three sizes, 1st, from one 

to four months old, 2d, from four to eight months old,, and 3d, 

from eight to twelve months old. 

The measures for the three sizes are the following: — 



1st. Total length of chemise, 

2d. Width half around the bust, 

3d. Half of the back width, 

4th. Half of the front width, 

5th. Length of the sleeve, 



1st size. 


2d 


SIZE. 


3d size 


23 Cm. 


25 


Cm. 


27 Cm 


23 » 


25 


(; 


27 " 


9X" 


10 


u 


11 " 


9^" 


10 


a 


11 " 


18 " 


19M » 


21 '• 



The Art of Dress Making. 



13 



HOW TO DESIGX THK PATTERN. 



Fig. 1. 



On a large sheet of paper trace a square having 23, 25 or 27 
centimetres each side, according to the size required, mark the 
corners with tlie letters A, B, C, D. 

Take the half of the height A D and mark this point with 
the letter E. At this point E draw a horizontal line that will be 
called " armhole line " and will mark the lower part of the arm 
hole curve. 

Starting from B mark on the line B C a distance equal to the 
fifth of this same line B C. It will be 4^^, 5 or oi^ cent, accord- 
ing to the size of the pattern desired. Mark this point with the 
letter F and you will have the depth of the front neck curve. 
Starting again from B mark on the line B A a distance equal to 

B F plus i^ cent 
(5, 5v^ or 6 cent 
according to size) 
mark this point 
with the letter G 
and you will 
have the width 
of the front neck 
curve. From A 
on the line A B, 
mark a distance 
equal to B F, 
show this point 
with the letter H 
this will be the 
width of the back 
neck c u r V e. 
^^3' ^' From this same 

point A, mark on the line A D a distance equal to the half of A 
H (21^;, 2^, or 2^ cent.) mark this point with the letter I ; you 
will have then the depth of the back neck curve. 





A 


H 




G 1 


r 

r 

c 
L 


) J 


^ ' 


''v' ^"""'*^-^ 




^^\^ 


E 


- — 


xL 


\ 


\L \N 


p ' 


D 






' ^ — ^Ji 



14 The Art of Dress Making, 



From this point I draw a horizontal line that will be called 
" shoulder line." On this shoulder line starting from the point 
at your left, measure a distance equal to the third measure (half 
of the back width) 9i^, 10 or 10 54; according to the size chosen, 
mark this point with the letter J. 

From J draw a vertical line that will meet the arm-hole line 
at the letter K. 

On the shoulder line starting from the point at your right 
measure a distance equal to the fourth measure (half of the front 
width) 91^, 10 or 10^ cent, mark this point with the letter L. At 
this point L draw a vertical that will meet the arm-hole line at 
the point M. 

This sketch once finished, we have to trace the outlines of 
the pattern; to do this start from the front neck curve and join 
G to F first by a dotted oblique line, then by a curve running off 
under the middle of the oblique a distance of one centimeter. 
Trace the back neck curve in the same manner by joining I to H 
by a dotted oblique line then by a curve running off the middle 
of the oblique y^ cent. only. 

On the shoulder line mark 1 cent, to the left of the point L 
and join this new point to G by a straight line then mark 1 cent, 
to the right of J and join this new point to H by a straight line. 

To design the curve of the arm-hole, first mark with an X 
the middle of distance K M, then starting from the point at the 
right of J draw a curve meeting the vertical J K at about yz of 
its height and running in a sharper curve to meet the point X. 
This is the back curve of the arm-hole. The front curve is drawn 
in the same way, starting from the point at the left of L, the 
curve will be a little deeper than the first one, it will cross the 
vertical L M and part about 3 mill, from it at the yi of its height 
before joining the point X. 

The above described pattern is for the little chemise or the 
stays but as the back of the stays lap over one another we will 
add 314 cent, to the back width from O to P. 

When the lower edge of the stays is finished with a false 
hem (but in this case only) lengthen the middle of the front 1-20 



The Art of Dress Making. 



15 



of the height of the square, this surplus is put under the letter 
C and diminishes gradually on the side to a point opposite the 
letter X. 

HOW TO TRACE THE PATTERN OF THE SLEEVE. 




Fig. 2 




Fig. 2 and J. 

The fig. 2 represents the sleeve folded 
in two, its height is equal to the height 
of the front of the chemise, its width is 
equal to the half of the back width. 

Trace a rectangle A B C D with a 
height equal to the front of th£ chemise 
measured from the lower part of the 
neck curve F to the angle C, fig. 1 ; and 
a width equal to the half of the back 
width I J, either 914^, 10 or 10^ accord- 
ing to size. 

From the point A mark on the line 
A B a distance equal to the half of the 
width of the rectangle; mark this point 
with the letter E and join E to C by a 
dotted vertical line. 

From the point B at the lower part of 
the rectangle mark a width equal to the 
fifth of B D mark this point with the let- 
ter F. Join F to E by a straight line. 
At the half of the oblique E C erect a 
perpendicular V/z cent, in height. Show 
this point with the letter G. Join E to 
C by a curve passing at G. Trace a 
second curve starting from E passing 
under the oblique E C and cutting it at 
about the yi of its length H and joining 
the first curve at the ^ of its length. If 
you wish to make a revers to this sleeve 
you must add a little length to it. To 



16 



The Art of Dress Making. 



do so add 3 cent, to the line C D mark this with the letter I at 
the point F, draw a vertical of the same length (3 cent.) mark 
this point J. As it is necessary to give a little more width to the 
edge of the fold to give it a chance to take the form of the sleeve 
above we will add 1 cent, at the left of J and we will join I to 
this new point J. 

COLLAR FOR STAYS. 



Fig. J,. 




To the stays a small collar is generally added. The quickest 
way to make a pattern for this collar is to use as a base the neck 
curve of the first pattern. To do this when the pattern has been 

cut on the proper lines, we 
lay over on another sheet of 
paper, the front part of the 
pattern as shown fig. 4 and 
trace the neck curve F G, the 
shoulder seam G L, then the 
front line F C to a length of 
5 or 6 cent. 

Next place the back pat- 
tern in such a way as to have 
the back shoulder seam H J 
touch the front one G L exactly as if the two pieces were sewed 
together, then trace the back neck curve H I and the back line I E 
on a length of 5 or 6 cent. only. All there is to do then is to 
design the collar following the whole neck curve and giving to it 
an average width of 3^ cent, on the sides and 4 cent, at the front 
and back. 

The shape given to the front and back of the collar is left to 
one's taste. Generally the point X is rounded ly^ to 2 cent. 

This collar is put on by an ordinary seam, it is lined with 
a light material that covers the seam and the edge of the trim- 
ming:. 



Fig J,. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



17 



HOW TO CUT AND PUT TOGETHER THE CHEMISE AND STAYS. 

Figs. 5 and 6. 




F,g 5 



When all the patterns are traced as explained above, you 
must cut them exactly at the pencil marks. Then you fold the 
material on its width as shown in Fig 5, that is to say, fold it by 
putting the two borders together. Then place the edge of the 
front pattern F C exactly on the fold, then go all around it with 

a tracing wheel. To the 
chemise no material is add- 
ed for the seams and hems. 
Mark with a notch the mid- 
dle of the arm-hole X, To 
cut the pattern of the sleeve 
fold the paper on the line 
C D, keeping the tracing 
outside, then cut double the 
lower edge F D or I J, the 
seam E F and the curve 
E G C. When this is done, 
open the paper and you 
will have the whole pat- 
tern. It leaves only to cut 
the slope on the line CHE. 
This pattern is also 
placed on the material 
folded double, the line C D 
of the pattern exactly on the fold and follow the same instructions 
as tor the bodice, that is, cut on the pencil marks without allow- 
ing anything for the seams and hems. The middle of the sleeve 
must also be marked to help in putting together of the garment. 
Fig. 6 represents the whole pattern of the bodice laid flat. 

To put the chemise together we will start by the shoulder 
seams, in fact, they are the only seams in the bodice. 

They must be neatly turned down. The sleeves are basted 



I 



Fig. 6. 



18 



The Art of Dress Makhtg. 



in the same way, taking great care not to make them both alike. 
The neck-curve, the lower edge of the bodice and the ends of the 
sleeves can be scalloped or finished with a narrow hem, it is 
then trimmed with a diminutive frilling. A narrow ribbon is put 
around the neck-curve to tighten it as desired. 

In basting the sleeves and the bodice together, put the mid- 
dle of the sleeve C, 1 cent, behind the shoulder seam or the sleeve 
seam 1 cent, in front of the mark X. This will be easily done as 
these points have been marked in cutting the cloth. 

As I have said already the stays are cut on the same pattern 
but in cutting them leave about 8 mill, all round except at the 
neck curve and arm-hole where we will cut right outside the 
pencil marks. We will also add 8 mill, all round the arm-hole 
of the sleeve. The front must be kept a little longer as shown 
by the letter N, Fig. 1. 

The material must be cut double, as already explained, for the 
chemise. The sboulder will be sewed together by an ordinary 
seam opened afterwards and stitched down with a fancy stitch. 
If the material is very thick the edges are finished by a bias of 
thin texture or a ribbon, the bias is preferable as it is more flexi- 
ble. Flannel is made up in the same manner. 

LOW NECKED CHEMISE. 



Fig. 7, <?, 9. 




F!(/. 7. 



This chemise is cut with the first pat- 
tern given but the neck curve is sloped S 
cent, ail around. 

The short sleeve is also cut witli the 
pattern of the long sleeve but the hne E X 
has a length of 4 cent. only. The point X 
is taken in 1 cent, from the line A. B. On 
the line A C take out 1 Yz cent, in width. 



I he Art of Dress ]\laking. 



19 




F II- 8. 




Fig. 9. 



Mark this point Z and join it to X by a 
dotted straiglit line then by a curve run- 
ning off 2 cent, under the middle of the 
oblique. 

This sleeve has no seams. To have its 
whole pattern we fold the paper on the lina 
E X then cut double followingr the outlines.. 
When the paper is unfolded recut the front 
slope and the deep curve. 

The same rules are to be 
followed when the pattern is 
laid on the material. 

In sewing the sleeve around 
the arm-hole see that the front, 
extremity crosses over the- 
back extremity of the sleeve. 



ANOTHER PATTERN OF CHILD S CHEMISE LOW NECKED SQUARE. 

Figs. 10 to 14. 



This model is more elaborats than the preceding ones. It is 

made with revers at the front 
and back, also one on each shoul- 
ders. It has no sleeve, but a 
small band of a triangular shape 
rounding the lower part of the 
arm-hole. 



HOW TO TRACE THE PATTERN. 




Fig. 10. 



Draw a rectangle A B C D, 
fig. 11, giving to A B a height of 
25 cent, for the 2d size (27 for 
the 3d). 

A C— Width equal to the half 
of the height A B. 



20 



The Art of Dress Making. 




3 



D 



E. — At 14^ of A B, trace a dotted line having a length equal 
to 2/3 of A C. 

F. — At the angle C, let in 1 cent, on 
J ^ I J Q c . the diagonal. 
j X\ : y^ F G— With equal to 1/3 of A C at 

I ^ ; the point G, draw a dotted vertical stop- 

ping at the horizontal on the point K. 

H. — Place this point at yz less 1 cent, 
of the height C D. Then draw a small 
dotted line from F and stopping opposite 
the point H. 

I. — Show this point at ^ of A G, on 
A's side. 

J. — Show this point at 2^ of A G, or 
the middle of I G. 

Join J to K by a dotted line, and join 
the point I to the middle of J K by 
another dotted line. 

"When all these points and lines are 
properly shown, trace the outlines of the 
pattern, starting from the shoulder, join- 
ing F to G by a full line running past G 
to the point J. 

Design the arm-hole, following the 
small dotted line F and join H by a curve. 

Show from H to L about 2 cent, for a 
small opening for the band which re- 
places the sleeve. 

Trace the front revers by joining K 
to I by a curve running off to the right 
of the oblique about \)i cent. 

Design the revers of the shoulder by 
following the line K J about Yi of its 
length then joining the shoulder line by a slight curve. 

This tracing represents the fourth (i^) of the chemise to 




The Art of Dress Making. 



21 



k. 



obtain the half of the pattern the paper must he folded on the 
line C H D and cut double on the outlines of the revers A I K 
and K J G, then the shoulder G F, the arm- 
hole F H and the opening H L. The front line 
A E B is cut single, that is to say the upper paper 
only. The other part of the paper that repre- 
sents the back of the pattern must be cut at least 
2 cent, wider as it must cross over. 

The fig. 14 shows the whole half of the pattern when it is 
cut. The revers will be folded on the dotted lines. The small 
band for the arm-hole is taken out of a square 3 cent, a side, cut 
on the diagonal as shown fig. IB. Those pieces will be sewed in 

the opening H L, the 



Fig. 13. 




Fig. IJ,. 
must be finished with a button-bole stich 



running strings to the 
chemise. 

To put the parts of the 
chemise together sew 
the shoulder F J by a 
very small seam. A very 
narrow hem is made 
around the revers and 
trimmed with a narrow 
lace or festooned. The 
arm-hole and band are 
finished in the same man- 
ner. All the angles 



22 



1 he Art of Dress Making. 



CHILD'S CAPE AND HOOD. 

Figs. 15 and 16. 

This Cape and Hood are generally made of flannel and its 
pattern is very simple. 




Fig. 15. 

Take a length of paper having the same width as the 
material to be used, and cut out of it a perfect square. One of 
the angles will be marked A fig. 16. From this point A mark 
on each side of the right angle a length of 20 cent. Mark 
those points B and C, then draw the diagonal AE and on this 
diagonal at 8 cent, from A mark the point D. Trace a curve 
fi-om B to C passing at D. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



23 



From A, mark on the sides of the angle a length of 33 to 
35 cent, according to the size of the head. Mark those points G 
and H. From A mark on the diagonal 37 to 37 cent. Mark 
this point I. 

Then trace a curve from G to H, passing at I. This curve 
shows the place where the eyelet holes or running strings that 
shirs the hood around the neck should be. 



iLH 




Fig. 16. 



To give the proper shape to the lower edge of the hood we 
mark on the diagonal starting from E, a distance of 15 to 18 
cent., and mark it F then trace a curve passing at this point F 
and joining the two sides of the square. 

Another running string will be put 4 cent, from B D C. 
This hood is scalloped all around and is trimmed with narrow 
ribbon bows. Another ribbon is passed through the eyelet H I G. 



24 The Art of Dress Making. 

CHILD'S DIAPER. 

Pigs. 17 and 18. 




Fig. 17. 

The simplest of all the diapers for a child is a mere square of 
linen hemmed on all sides. No pattern is needed for it, as it is 
almost like a handkerchief. 

We give here figs. 17 and 18, another very simple design 
very easily made. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



25 



Trace a square having 70 cent, each side, A B C D, across 
which draw the diagonal A D. Mark the middle of this diagonal 
with the letter E and join this point E to the angle C by a straight 
line. C is the pointed end of the diaper. On the Hne A D mark 
on each side of E 37K cent. Indicate these points with the letters 
F and G. This hne F G must have 75 cent., it is the upper part 

of the diaper, it is finished by the 



waist band. 

From the point E on the line 
E C mark a length of 12 cent., 
mark it I. From I we will draw 
a parallel to A D, that line will 
cut the sides of the square at H 
and J and the distance between 
those two points must be equal 
to F G (75 cent.). 

The whole pattern is included 
inside the lines G F H C J G 
less the waist band that is made 
out of a straight strip of cloth 
54 cent, long by 8 cent, wide, fig. 19. This band is folded in 
two on the wrong side to allow finishing its extremities, then it 
is turned over on the right side. Two eyelets will be made, one 

at each end, about 20 cent, from 




Fig. 18. 



Ifi- 



t b 



the extremity and one cent, 
from the upper edge. A tape 
will be sewed 2 cent, on the out- 
side of the eyelets. The surplus 

in width found in the material will be shirred to make the length 

of the waist band. 



Fig. 19. 



'2(5 



The Art of Dress Maki7tg. 




Fig. 20. 



CHILD'S DIAPER— DRAWERS. 

Figs. 20 and 21. 

This model, although very simple, is a little more compli- 
cated than the preceding one. To 
make the pattern we will draw a right 
angle BAG, fig. 21. From A to B a 
length of 50 cent, and from A to C give 
50 cent. also. From C running toward 
A mark a distance equal to 1/3 of A C 
and mark this point with the letter D. 
At D raise a vertical 3 cent, high, mark 
it E. Join C to B by a straight line 
and from C running to B mark a dis- 
tance equal to C D. This new point 
will be marked F. 
On this same line 
C B, starting from 
F, show a distance 
equal to ^ less 2 
cent, of B F. Mark 
it G. From B, run- 
ning toward C, 
mark a length equal 
to F G indicated 
with the letter I. 

At the point G 
raise a perpendicu- 
lar 3 cent. long. 
Do the same at the 
point I, indicate 
those two points by 
the letters H and J. 
In the middle of I 
G place the point 




Fig. 21. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



K. At this point K raise the perpendicular 5 cent. long. 
M. — Place this point in the middle of the distance A D. 
When all these points are properly detined, trace the outlines of 
the pattern, to do this follow the horizontal from A to M, join M 
to E by a light curve, E to F by a straight line, F to H by a 
straight line, B to J by a straight line. Join I to L and L to G 
by dotted straight lines, then trace a curve starting from J, pass- 




Fig. 2'. 



ing 1 cent, to the right of I, running off the middle of the dotted 
line ]>2 cent, and joining L. 

The second part of the curve is traced in the same way, it 
starts from L, runs off Di cent, from the middle of the dotted 
line, passes 1 cent, to the left of G and then joins H. 

Two of these diapers are generally cut together. To do it 
cut from the material a length equal to its width, the square is 
folded in two on the diagonal then lay the pattern over it and 
cut double, fig. 22. 

The waist band is made in the same way as the previous model. 



28 



The Art of Dress Alaking. 



CHILD'S ROUND CAP. 
Figs. 23, 2^ and 25. 

The cap is usually made of muslin and is 
trimmed to suit the taste, either with plaits or 
embroidery, sometimes both, lace may also be 
used if desired The edge is trimmed with a 
frill, the strings are made of muslin or ribbon. 
The pattern of this cap is composed of two 
pieces, the crown and the band. 

The crown is absolutely round with a dia- 
meter of 7 cent. A compas with 33^ cent, 
opening will trace it. Fig. 24. 

The band is drawn in a rectangle A B 
C D, fig. 25, with a depth of 20 cent, and 
a length of 10 cent. 

At the point C, going toward B, mark 
a depth equal 'to % the width of the rect- 
angle, mark it with the letter E. 

From C on the line C D, mark a dis- 
tance equal to C E plus 2 cent. Show 
the point with the letter F. To obtain 
the point G start from D on the line D A, 
mark a distance equal to 14^ of D C, at 
this point draw a small horizontal run- 
ning out of the rectangle 2 cent. 

To design the outlines of the pattern 
join E to F and F to G, extended by 
straight lines, also E to B and A to G. 
This last line will run straight about ^ 
of its course then meet G by a curve. 

For cutting the crown of the cap leave 
2 or 3 mill, all round. The band will be 
cut double. If the cap is plaited, the plaits 
must be made before hand and leave the 
band 12 cent, deep and 40 cent. long. 




3 




The Art of Dress Making. 



29 



CHILD'S CAP IN THREE PIECES. 



Fig. 26. 




This bonnet is made in three sizes. 



Fig. 26. 




Fig. 27. 




1st size, 
2d « 
3d « 



SIDE PIECE. MIDDLE PIECE. 

8x8 cent. 20 x 2M cent. 

9x9 " 22}^ X 3 

10 X 10 " 2.5 X Z% " 



Fig. 28. 



The pattern of the side piece, figs. 27-28, 
is traced with a perfect square 8, 9 or 10 cent, 
each side, according to the size. Mark the 
angles with the letters A B C D, fig. 27. At 
the half of A B erect a perpendicular line equal 
in height to 14; of A B (2, '1% or 232 cent.) mark 
this line with the letters E F. 

In the middle of B C erect a perpendicular 
line and give it a length equal to the half of 
E F, mark this point with the letter G. 

Raise the point A % cent, less than E F, 
mark it J. Then join J to F, F to B, B to G 
and G to C by dotted lines, prolong the line 
G C a distance equal to E F, mark it H. 

At the point D mark on the diagonal B D 
1 cent, and join this new point to H and to I 
at the middle of A D. 

The outline of the pattern is a continuous 
curve starting from J and ending at H. This 
curve runs off the oblique 34^ cent, from J to 
F, ^ cent, from F to B, >^ cent, from B to G 
and G to H. From H to I> the curve runs 
under the oblique y^ cent, and from T> io I % 
cent. From I to J the line is straight. 



30 



The Art of Dress jMakittg". 



MIDDLE PIECE. 



Fiy. 29. 



R' 



^. 



Fig. 29. 



Trace a rectangle A B C D, fig. 29, having a depili 
and widtli suitable to the side piece already drawn. In 
the middle of B C erect a perpendicular with a length 
equal to the half of A B, mark this point with the 
letter E. At the point B run out of the rectangle % 
cent. At the point C run in the rectangle ^ cent. 
Join these two points to E by oblique lines, then by 
curves running off the oblique 3 to 4 millimetres. 
The side piece is cut double, adding the necessary 
width for a small hem (4 or 5 mill.). The middle piece 
is cut from the material folded on the bias. The line 
A D is put exactly on the fold and cut double, allow- 
ing also for the seam and hem. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



31 



INFANT'S BIBS. 

Bibs are made of various patterns and can be confectioned 
to vary according to one's fancy. Whatever the pattern chosen, 




Fifj. SO. 

the only important point to be observed is the neck-curve, on 
which the whole pattern is built. This curve is not exactly 
round to permit of a more perfect fit on the shoulders. 

In a bib the size of the neck curve varies from 24 to 27 cent. 
Sometimes it is more, according to the child's age. To design 
this pattern we will take the average size of 26 cent. As we only 



32 



The Art of Dress Making. 



want half of the pattern, we will work on half the measure- 
ment, say 13 cent., and we will start 
designing the pattern by tracing the ver- 
tical line A B, and give to it a length of 
about 30 cent. Fig 34. 

A little above the middle of this line 
draw a perpendicular (on the left side), 
mark it C D. 

From C mark on the perpendicular 

the depth of the neck-curve equal to Vi of 

half the neck measurements (j^ of 13 = 4 

cent. 3 mill.), show this point 




Fiij. 31. 




Fig. 32. 




Fig. 33. 



with the letter E. Next mark 
the width of the neck- curve, 
equal to C E plus 3 mill. = (4 
cent. 6 mill.), indicate it by the 
letter F and then mark the 
back depth of the neck-curve, 
equal to C E plus 6 mill. (= 4 
cent. 9 mill.), show it by the 
letter G. 

At this point G, draw a 
horizontal and mark on it a distance 
equal to H of C F, you will have the 
point H. Join F to H and F to E by 
oblique lines. 

To give the back slope, place the 
ruler at the point C, make it pa ss over 
the point H then draw an oblique run- 
ning past H, about 5 cent., and you 
will have the point I. 

Join H to F, by a curve running off 
above the middle of the oblique 7 or 8 
mill. Join F to E by a curve running 



off under the middle of the oblique I'i mill. 



The Art of Dress Alaking. 



33 



From F mark on the horizontal a width 
equal to H I, mark it J, then join I to J by 
a curve parallel to H K F. 

The length in front is equal to the half 
of the neck measurements, 13 cent, from E 
to M, the width is equal to C J. The point 
N is raised above the horizontal M 2 cent. 

To trace the side curve join J to N by a 
dotted straight line then by a curve running 
off V/2 cent, to the right of the straight 
line. 

A quicker 
way to trace 
this bib pat- 
tern, or any 
other, is to 
use the little 
chemise pat- 
tern as we did 
already for the 
stays collar. 




Fig. 34. 



Fig. 35 shows how to proceed, and 
will be easily understood, the scal- 
oped line V Y and the pointed line 
V Z show the outline design and can 
take any form, this is a mere matter 
of taste. 

The bib is cut as the hood and 
diaper. Put the line E M on the 
fold of the material and cut double, 
allowing about 7 mill, for the hem. 







V 

\ 
\ 


K 






'1 


'i 

\ 


\ 




( 


1 


I 

•v. 


-^^ 


I 
1 

1 

1^ 



Fig. 35. 



34 



The Art of Dress Making. 



CHILD'S DRESSES. 



^^ 







)o 



t 

)- ' — 







The dress patterns the most 
usually used are four in num- 
ber. 

1st. The dress with a 
bodice. 

2d. The dress with a yoke. 

3d. The Princess dress. 

4th. The straight dress or 
night gown. 



Fi(j. 36. 

child's dress with a bodice. 
Fig. 37. 



A 



E 



This dress pattern 
is given first, as its 
understanding helps 
with all the others. 

As the chemise and 
stays this pattern is (XJ 
traced in a rectangle, 
smaller in height as 
the bodice ends at the 
waist. The average p 
height is about y'z of 
the stays, and the 
width 1 cent, larger. 







K 



R 



W 



Fig. 37. 




H 



The Art of Dress Making. 



35 



To][trace this pattern we will take the following measure- 
ments : 

1st. Length to the waist (height of the rectangle) 18 cent. 

2d, Half round the bust (width of the rectangle) 28 cent. 

3d. Back width, 11 cent. 

4th. Front width, 11 cent. 

Trace a rectangle A B C D (Fig. 37) 18 x 28 cent. 

Starting from A, at the 5^ of A D, trace the horizontal E F. 
This line is called " ligne de carrure." 

At the half of A D, draw another horizontal, G H, this line 

is called bust line. 

A p .; K N B 




C I. — Height equal 
to To of B C. Draw a 
small horizontal at 
the point I. 

A J. — Distance 
equal to the width of 
the back. (11 cent.) 
At this point J draw 
a vertical line, stop- 
ping at the bust line 
JL. 

B K. — D i s t ance 
equal to the front 
width (11 cent.). At 
the point K draw a vertical, stopping at the bust line, K M. 

B N. — Front neck-curve equal to \ of the width of the rect- 
angle. Join N to F by a dotted straight line. 

A O. — Back neck-curve equal to B N less 1 cent. 
P. — Place this point at the half of A E, then join O to P by 
a dotted straight line. 

J R and K S. — The points R and S are placed under the 
points J and K, a distance equal to Yi of the height, A E. 

T. — Place this point 13^ cent, under the bust line in the 
middle of L M. 

This is the skeleton or frame on which the pattern is designed. 



Fig. 38. 



36 The Art of Dress Making. 

To trace the outlines, we will start from the back neck- 
curve and join P to O by a curve running under the middle of 
the oblique 7 or 8 mill. Then trace the back shoulder by joining- 
O to R by a straight line running past R 1 cent. The back arm- 
hole, starting from the extremity of the shoulder, joining tlie 
verticale at the " carrure " line down to half the distance between 
that line and the point L, run in yi cent, to the right of L and 
join the point T. 

The front outlines are drawn in the same manner by joining 
F to N by a curve running off under the middle of the oblique 
1^^ cent., then by tracing the shoulder line N S with a straight 
line running beyond the point S 1 cent. Starting from this last 
point (S extended) we will design the arm-hole by a curve meet- 
ing the vertical line at the " carrure " line, running off to the 
right 3 mill, and joining the point T. 

The waist line runs straight from D to the point facing the 
middle of the arm hole and from there join the point I by a very 
slight curve. 

When this bodice is not cut in one piece, the back and front 
parts must be divided by a line that will show the seam. This 
line can be placed exactly at the letter T, but very often it is 
put a little back, at about the middle of the distance T L. 

The dress is completed by shirring the skirt to the bodice. 
For a dress with a total length of 75 cent, the skirt will take 1%, 
width of cloth 80 cent, wide, this will give a total width of 2 
metres. 

For a short dress 50 or 55 cent, total length, two widths of 
material are sufficient, that is to say, Im. 60. 

When the skirt is trimmed with plaits this supplementary 
length is added in cutting the skirt. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



37 



THE SLEEVE. 

Fig. 89. 

The width of the sleeve is based on half the size of the 
Itodice arm-hole. The length is once and a half the height of 
the bodice. 

Pattern of the upper part of the sleeve. 

A— Trace a right angle. 

A B— Height equal to Di the height of 
the bodice. 

A C— Width equal to half the width of 
the arm-hole. 

Trace a rectangle on those two measures. 

D E— Mark the middle of the width A C 
with the letter D and at this point trace the 
vertical line D E. 

C F— Height equal to D C, at the point 
F draw a small horizontal running 1 cent, 
out of the rectangle. 

A G— Height equal to i< of C F. 

G H— Length equal to the half plus 1 
cent, of G B. 

I — Place this point at the half of B E. 

H I — Join H to I by an oblique then with 
the bevel trace the perpendicular I J. 
K— At the half of F J, draw a horizontal running inside 
the rectangle ){ of the width D C. 

Trace a curve from G to I) and from D to F. 




Curve lightly 



the elbow H and also the inside seam F K J. 

Pattern of the under sleeve. 



The under sleeve is smaller than the upper sleeve 1 cent, 
from I to L, 1 cent, from J to N and 1 cent, from F to M. Join 
H to L by a very slight curve, also M to K and K to N. Join G 
to M by a dotted straight line, then by a curve running under 



38 



The Art of Dress Making-. 



the oblique 1 cent, between the point F and the line D E, then 
gradually reaching the point G. 

To cut this pattern in one piece, the paper must be folded on 
the line A B and cut double, following the outlines of the upper 
part of the sleeve; then the paper is opened and cut over again, 
following the outlines of the under part of the sleeve. 



BABY S DKESS WITH YOKE. 

This dress is made with shirrings and tucks. The shape of 
the yoke varies, but the pattern mostly used are : The square 
yoke, the round yoke, and the pointed yoke. 




J^ig. J,0, 



To cut the square yoke the dress bodice pattern is used 
with the following modifications. Fig. 40. 

U V. — Mark the back height of the yoke at the middle of 
the distance E G, by the horizontal U V. 

X Z. — To have l^he front part of the yoke, place the point X 
at the same height than V and the point Z at Yi of the distance 
F H. Join those two points by a curve rounded about half a. 
centimetre in the middle. 

If you want a pointed yoke, place the point U about 2 cent. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



39 




Fig 41. 



under the bust line G, as shown m fig. 41, and mark the point V 

1 cent, under the "carrure" line E F. This height is variable. 

The front part of the yoke is 
traced in the same way, but is 
generally lower than the back. 
When this pattern has been de- 
signed it is divided in two by a 
line going from the middle of the 
arm-hole T to the waist line. 

The whole pattern is com- 
posed of four pieces : 

1st, The back of the yoke ; 2d, 
the back of the bodice ; 3d, the 

front of the yoke; 4tb, the front of the bodice, as shown fig. 42. 
The two back pieces, 1 and 2, will be cut double, but parted 

one from the other, allowing material for the seams and button- 
holes. The two front pieces 3 and 4 will also be cut double but 

all in one piece, as no seam is needed on the front part of the 

bodice. 

To cut the bodice of this dress, detach from the material the 

necessary height for the front. 

The upper part of the remaining piece of mateiial is shirred 

on a width of 17 or 18 cent.; then the piece No. 3 of the 

pattern is properly pinned to 

it, taking care to have it ex- 
actly in a straight line. Then 

the piece No. 4 of the pattern 

is laid on the material to show 

the length of the waist. At 

this place the cloth is also 

shirred, as shown by fig. 43. 

When the material is thus 

prepared lay again on it the 

piece No. 4, paying special 

attention to have the middle 

of the front exactly in the middle of the shirring 




40 



The Art of Dress Making. 



To have the width at the lower edge of the skirt, draw a 

straight line from the point 
under the arm to the edge of 
the material as shown fig. 44. 
For the back proceed the 
same way but open the upper 
part of the material, in the 
middle before shirring to pre- 
vent cutting. This opening 
must have a length of 25 cent, 
from the yoke. 





Fig 43. 



Fig. 



1,1,. 



When strings of the same material are desired, sew them 
on each side of the front shirring and tie them in the back. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



41 



PRINCESS DRESS. 

Fig. 45. 



In this pattern the back and sides of the skirt are cut apart 
from the bodice, as shown fig. 46. Tire front is all in one apron 
shaped piece. 




This dress can be made of pique with high necked bodice 
and long sleeves. Or of lighter material, muslin or cambric, 
with a low necked bodice and short sleeves. In this last case 
the material is trimmed with insertion, fine tucks, embroidery 
or lace to suit the taste. 



42 



The Art of Dress Making. 



To cut this dress, whatever material is employed, the first 
pattern described, fig. 37, is used, but the front is divided in 
two and there is no seam under the arm. 




Fig. 46. 



When the pattern is traced, mark the width given to the 
apron at yz of the shoulder width as on fig. 46, then at the 
waist, starting from the middle of the front (5 to 6 cent.), join 
these two points by a curve. When this is done, prolong the 
middle of the front sufficiently to give a total length of 75 
centimetres to 1 metre, measured from the shoulder seam. Give 



The Art of Dress Making 43 



to the bottom a width of 25 cent, and join this point to the 
curve at the waist. This will be half of the apron. 

The seam under the arm can be kept to give facilities to 
enlarge the bodice later on, in that case the pattern will be 
composed of three pieces : 1st, the back ; 2d, the side ; 3d, the 
half front. The two first pieces are cut in the usual way. To 
cut the front, the cloth is folded in two and the edge of the 
pattern put on the fold. If the front is made of insertion and 
tucks, the insertion and tucked bands are sewed together so 
as to give the necessary length, then it is folded and cut as 
explained above. 

The side piece and the back are cut with the same rules 
as the ordinary bodice. When they are tucked lengthwise, the 
tucks are made first so as to give the necessary width and 
length before laying the pattern on the material. Two centi- 
metres will be allowed on each side of the back for the buttons 
and button-holes and leave enough cloth to cross over. 

The skirt is cut absolutely straight, as wide at the top as 
at the bottom. It is made of two widths of material. The 
seam is in the middle of the back but it is not sewed as far 
as the waist, but only to about 20 cent, below so as to leave 
an opening. The upper part of the skirt is shirred sufficiently 
to give the necessary width to sew it to the bodice. Sometimes 
a large plait is made in the middle of the back in such a way 
as to have the opening and seam hidden by it. This plait 
takes up part of the width to be shirred. The front seams are 
trimmed with a ruffle of embroidery or lace, as well as the 
sleeves and neck. 



44 



The Art of Dress Making. 



NIGHT DRESS OR WRAPPER. 

Fig. 47. 



This wrapper 




has no yoke, it is cut in two straight pieces, 
a few tucks will remove the fullness 
at the upper part of the back and 
front. 

To cut it, two lengths of material 
82 cent, each are required of those 82 
cent., 75 are the proper length of the 
wrapper, 5 cent, for the hem at the 
bottom and the remaining two for the 
neck and shoulder seams. 

In the middle of the upper part of 
each of those 



pieces, tucks 
may be made 
as many in 
number as de- 
sired, but they 
must not ex- 
ceed 12 cent. 
Fig. 41. in length. 

The middle 
one being the longest, the other decreas- 
ing on each side, making the shape of a 
pointed yoke, 

In the middle of the back a width of 
3 cent, will be allowed for the slit. This 
opening will have a length of 20 cent, 
and will be strengthened by a straight 
band sewed inside. Two button-holes 
only are needed. 

The figs. 48 and 49 show the material 
ready for the back and front of the dress. 




Fig. 48. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



45 



it is folded in two. As the pattern of the bodice is designed 
in one piece (see fig. 37), we divide it on the dotted line T and 
lay it on the material in the manner shown figs. 43 and 44, 




Fuj 49. 



When it is well held together by pins, trace the outlines of the 
neck, shoulder and arm-hole. Give 1 cent, more width to the 
seams A and B and from these points draw a straight line, 
joining the edge of the material. The lower part of the skirt is 
rounded by shortening the sides from 3 to 4 centimetres. 



4(5 



The Art of Dress Making. 



SMALL FLANNEL SACQUE. 

Fig. 50. 

The pattern of this sacque is composed of three pieces : 
1st, the back ; lid, the front ; 3d, the 
sleeve. 

The measurements required are the 
following : 

1st. Back length to the waist, 18 
centimetres. 

2d, Total back length, 25 centi- 
metres. 

3d. Back width, 11>2 centimetres. 
4th. Front width, 113^ centimetres. 
5th. Half around the bust, 28 cen- 
Fig. 50. timetres. 




PATTERN OF THE BACK. 

Fig. 51. 

To design this pattern we will first 
trace a quadrangle having a length equal 
to the 2d measurement (total back length) 
and a width equal to half the 5th meas- 
urement (half around the bust). Mark 
the corners A C J J' as in fig. 51. 

From A, running toward J, mark 
the back length to the waist (1st measure- 
ment, 18 cent.). Show this point with 
the letter B. 

At B draw the horizontal B K. This 
is the waist line. 

D — Trace the shoulder line at tV of 
AB. 

E— Trace this line at 14: of A B. It 
is the " carrure " line. 




Fig. 51. 



The Art of Dress Making, 



47 



G — Mark on the "carrure" line E the Sd. measurement \\%. 
cent. Show it with the letter G. 

A F — Width of the neck-curve equal to yi of A C. 

D H — Shoulder width equal to E G plus 1 cent. 

I — Place this point at the half of C K. 

Now join D to F by a curve, F to H by a straight line, H to 
G by a line slightly curved and G to I by a curve. This will give 
the neck-curve, the shoulder seam and the arm-hole curve. Cam- 
ber the waist M cent, at the point B and join E to J by a curve 
passing at this point. Do the same thing at the point K and join 
I to J' in the same manner. 

This completes the outlines of half the back pattern. 



PATTEBN or THE FROXT, 

Fig 52. 

At the point A, trace a right 
angle, give to A B a width 
equal to half of the fifth meas- 
urement plus 3 cent. (17 cent.) 

At the point B draw a ver- 
tical line 28 cent, in length. 

A C — Length equal to the 
fifth measurement (18 cent.). 
At the point C trace a small 
horizontal. 

D— At the i^ of A C trace 
the " carrure " line. 

E— At the half of A C trace 
the arm-hole line. 

F— At the half of A D trace 
the shoulder line. 

B G— Width of the neck 
curve. 
B H — Depth of the neck-curve 1 cent, smaller than B G. 
G I — Shoulder seam hz cent, smaller than the back shoulder 




Fig 



F H. 



48 



The Art of Dress Making. 



J K— Width of the hah front {\\% cent.). 

When all those lines and points are properly established, 
trace the outlines of the pattern. This is done by joining G to H 
by a curve, G to I by a straight line Then mark the depth of 
the arm-hole L \% cent, below the arm-hole line (in the middle of 
D K) join I to K by a line slightly curved, then K to E by a very 
pronounced curve passing at the point L. 

When the front and back arm-holes are put together, the 
whole curve must have the shape of an ^.^g. 

At the waist line C, mark 3 cent, out, to the left of the ver- 
tical line, it gives the point M. From the point E trace a straight 
line passing at M, give it a length equal I J', fig. 46, it will give 
the point N. 

When the sacque is made double-breasted, as shown by fig. 
50, 5 cent, are added to the front width P. 

A little dart \% in width and 6 to 7 cent, in length is made 
at the neck curve H. 






Fiy. 53. 



Ficj. 5 J,.. 



Fig. 55. 



Sometimes this garment is made with a yoke. See figs. 53, 
54 and 55. In that case the yoke is shaped to suit the taste. If 
it is in a point as fig. 53, the point of the back will be placed in 
in the middle of B D, fig. 46, and its extremity 1 or 2 cent, under 
the " carrure" line. In the front, the point will be placed about 
3 cent, under the arm-hole L, and its extremity about 3 cent, 
under the "carrure" line K. The yoke pattern is made in the 
usual way and laid on the material only when the plaits are made. 



The Art of Dress Making: 



49 



INFANT'S LONG CLOAK WITH CAPE. 
I^ig. 56. 

This garment is composed of a long cloak with plain sleeves 
and a large cape with small collar. Sometimes the collar is 
replaced by a hood, but this hood is old-fashioned and very 
seldom made now. 




The pattern of this garment can be made in two different 
ways : 1st, as a sacque with a seam on each side ; 2d, all in one 
piece, plaited and sewed to a yoke. The first model is prefer- 
able, as the child does not look so large in it, but the second is 
warmer. 

The cape is also made in two different ways, flat with a little 
dart on the shoulder or shirred around a yoke which is hidden 
by the collar. The sleeve is either straight with a small cuff or 
shirred with a wrist band. We give here the pattern of the first 
model as being the most convenient. 



50 



The Art of Dress Making. 



PATTERN OF BACK FOR THE CLOAK. 

Fig. 57. 

The quickest and simplest way to cut tliis cloak is to use the 

pattern drawn already for the bodice of the dress. The material 

is laid on the table folded in 
two and the pattern put over 
it as shown in fig. 57. That 
is to say: leave between the 
edge of the pattern and the 
fold of the material li cent, at 
the neck curve A, 3 cent, at 
the waist B. We will then 
adjust the pattern with pins 
to prevent it from moving and 
then trace the outlines direct- 
ly on the cloth. Half a centi- 
metre will be added at the 
neck C to allow for corrections 
of the curve moved out of its 
place by the surplus of width 
added at A. 

One centimetre will also be 
added all along the shoulder 
D and 1 cent, to the width 
under the arm E. Nothing 
will be added to the arm- 
hole. 

Starting from C, mark on 
the fold to total length of the 
back of the cloak. This length 

may vary from 90 cent, to 1 metre (C G). 

The width at the bottom, G H, is in average 50 cent. This 

width can be measured running up a little on the side, as the 

bottom must be rounded. 

To determine the length to be given to the side H, place the 




Fig. 57. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



51 



point D at ^ of the shoulder line and give to D H the same 
length as D G. To have the under arm seam, join E to H by a 
straight line. Join also G to H by a light curve, this is the lower 
of the cloak or hem. 



PATTERX OF THE FRONT OF THE CLOAK. 

Fig. 58. 

The material being folded 
as for the pattern of the back, 
trace, at 5 cent, from the edge 
of the fold, a straight line 90 
cent, to 1 metre long, accord- 
ing to the length given to the 
back A B. 

Place the pattern of the 
front part of the bodice at ^ 
cent, from this line measured 
at the neck C and 2 cent, at 
the waist D. Then secure the 
pattern with pins and design 
the outlines, first, of the neck 
curve, following exactly the 
pattern ; second, the shoulder 
line, adding J^ cent, all along; 
third, the arm-hole, exactly as 
the pattern. Add 1 cent, 
under the arm F. Place the 
point E at ^ the shoulder, 
width starting from the neck, 
then give from E to B a length 
equal to the back D G, 

The width at the bottom is 
about 50 cent, from B to H and the length of the seam under the 
arm F H is equal to the back E H. The lower edge H B is 
slightly rounded the same as the back. 




Fig. 58. 



52 



The Art of Dress Making. 



FLAT SLEEVE CUT IN TWO PIECES. 

Figs. 57 and 58, 

Divide in two the ordinary pattern of sleeve given with the 
dress. Place the top on the material as show fig. 57. Adjust it 

well with pins and trace first 
the inside seam exactly as the 
pattern ; second, the upper 
curv^e, adding about 2 cent, in 
length at the top and back ;. 
third, the elbow seam, adding 
2 cent, in width to the upper 
part, 1^ cent, to the elbow 
and 1 cent, at the wrist; fourth, 
lengthen the lower part 1 cent. 
Place and adjust the under 
sleeve as shown fig. 58, then 
trace the upper curve and in- 
side seam exactly as the pat- 
tern. Give 1 cent, more width 
to the whole length of the 
elbow seam and lengthen the 
end I cent. 

THE CAPE. 

Fig. 59. 

The cape pattern is traced 

on the same principle as the 

Fig. 59. stay's collar described fig. 4, 

that is to say, attach together 

with pins or otherwise the back and front of the cloak, fig. 59. 

The material is folded in two in the usual way, and on the 
fold mark from A to B the length to be given to the cape, say 
50 or 60 cent., according to the pattern chosen, whether it is^ 
made plain or finished with a ruffle. 




The Art of Dress Making 53 



Fold the cloak in two iti the middle of the back and place it 
on the material A B. Be careful to have the two pieces laid well 
over each other, then trace on the cloth the neck-curve and the 
front edge of the cape. 

Give from E to F a length equal to A B and from C to D the 
same length plus 2 cent. Other intermediary lengths can be 
shown to help the tracing of the curve B D F. The dotted line 
shows the size of the collar. 

COLLAR. 

The collar is cut with the cape pattern. Its size varies and 
depends altogether on the trimming. If it is trimmed with a 
ruffle or a Avide lace, the cloth will naturally be made narrower. 
The same rules are observed in making the cape as in making 
the cloak itself. 



54 



The Art of Dress Making. 



FLANNEL BARROWS. 

Figs. 60-61. 

This garment is nothing more than a 
long skirt witli a small corslet and two nar- 
row shoulder straps. 

The back of this corslet forms two 
rounded points crossing over each other 
and tightening through an opening made on 
the left side. 

To trace the pattern of this corslet, de- ' 
sign a quadrangle 26 cent, wide by 10 cent, 
long and mark it A B C D, fig. 6L At the 
middle of A B draw a vertical, mark it E. 

On this vertical mark a height equal 
to the half of B D, mark it F. On each 




Fig. 60. 




Fig. 61. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



55 



sides of the point E mark \}4. cent, you will have the points I 
and J. Place the point G at the half of B D. At the half of 
G D draw, out of the quadrangle, a horizontal 6 cent, long, 
mark this point H. Kow design the arm-hole by a curve joining 
I to J, passing by F. Slope the middle of the front A 1 cent, 
then design the upper edge up to I. Join J to G by a line almost 
straight, run it as far as H, where you will round the end. To 
trace the lower edge from C to about 5 cent, from D, then raise 
it up gradually \}4 cent, to join D and H. At 4 cent, from the 
line B D, cut a vertical opening L. The shoulder strap is cut on 
a length of 15 cent, with a width of 3 cent., one of its extremities 
is sewed up to the back J, the other is rounded and finished with 
a button-hole to attach to the point L. The front A C can be 
lengthened 1 }i cent, and that gradually starting from under the 
arm. 



ANOTHER MODEL OF BARROW. 




Figs. 62-63. 

This model is very plain. To make it, 
cut a length of material from 75 to 80 cent, 
long plus half a width on the same length. 
Sew the two together. Mark the middle 
of the total width; on each side of this mark 
leave a space of 2>2 cent., makmg a width 
of 5 cent. Then, on each side of this space, 
make straight plaits with 4 cent, between 
each. The total width will be reduced to 
58 or 60 cent. (30 cent, for the half). 

When this is done, the material is 
folded in two and the upper part is traced 
as show fig. 63. 

A B— Width, 30 cent. 



56 



The Art of Dress Making. 



A C — Length, 10 cent. Draw the horizontal C D, on which 
a stich will be made, marking the waist. 

B E — Mark 3 cent, to cross over the line E F bearing the 
middle of the back, 

G — This point is in the middle of A E. 

G H — Depth of the arm-hole, 5 cent. 

I J — Mark \% cent, on each side of G. 




Fig. 63. 

Design the upper edge in lowering the point A 1 cent. 
Join 1, then the arm-hole I H J and follow the straight line J B. 

The plaits are stitched from the upper edge to the waist and 
left loose in the skirt. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



57 



PETTICOAT FOR A CHILD FROM 2 TO 14 YEARS. 




Fig. 64. 



The child's petticoat varies in width according to age and 
fashion. When the child's dress is required to be full, the petti- 
coat must be made wider in consequence. 

As a good average proportion, a 
flounced petticoat for a child from 
two to fourteen years old, must 
have a width at its lower part, 
equal to twice the measure around 
the hips plus 10 centimetres. As 
an example, a child 8 to 4 years 
old, measuring 65 cent, around the 
hips, will require a petticoat lm40 
total width. 

This may look large at first sight, 
compared with a petticoat made for 
a grown person, but this width is 
absolutely necessary for children of that age. 

When the petticoat is mounted on an under bodice, this 
under bodice is cut as told in the previous explanation given 
for a child's dress. Naturally this under bodice is made without 
sleeves. 

Sometimes, when the child is 
thin, two or three ruffles are added 
at the back for the puffing of the 
dress. W^hen the petticoat is not 
wanted with a bodice, it is mounted 
on a flat waist band, fig. 65. This 
band is cut in the following manner: 
Trace the right angle CAB. 
A D — Distance equal to the half, 

less 3 cent., of the waist measure. A E^Distance equal to one- 
fourth, less 3 cent., of the waist measure. D F — Show the 
height of the band (about 8 cent, all around) and stop it under 




Fio-. 65. 



58 



The Art of Dress Making: 



the line A B at a distance equal to the half of A E. This will 
give you the height of the point F. 

This pattern will serve for children from 2 to 14 years old; 
over that age it will be better to take the pattern described for 
an adult's petticoat explained further. 

This petticoat, as the skirt is cut absolutely straight, is 
shirred at the waist and has a wide hem at its lower edge. 



CHILD'S DRAWERS. 

F'ig: 66. 

The pattern fig. 
66 represents a pair 
of drawers for a 
child 18 months to 
two years old. It 
is the smallest size 
made of this pat- 
tern. 

Three measure- 
ments, only, are re- 
quired to trace it : 

1st. The side 
length, say 25 cent., 
without the garter 
band; the trimming 
will make it 30 
cent. 

2d. The width, 
measured at the 
widest part of the 
body, say 56 cent. 

3d. The waist 
measure — 54 cent. 
Trace a rectangle having a height equal to the first meas- 
urement (25 cent.) and a width equal to J3 of the second 




The Art of Dress jSfaklng-. 59 



measurement 56 (I3 of 56=18%!). Mark the corners as usual, 
AB CD. 

A E — Depth equal to the width A C plus 1-10 of this same 
width. At the point E draw a horizontal and give to it a length 
equal to the half of the second measurement {M of 56=28). Mark 
this point with the letter F. 

C G — At the point C lengthen the vertical D C of 1-10 of the 
width of the rectangle. Mark this point G. 

D H — Do the same at the point D and place the letter H. 
Join A to G by a straight line, G to F by a straight line, B to H 
first by a dotted straight line then by a curve running above the 
middle of the oblique 3 mill. 

Join H to F by a dotted straight line then by a curve running 
above the oblique 7 mill. 

The outlines A G F H B shows the front part of the pattern. 
Lengthen the line A C till it meets the line G F. Mark the point 
of intersection with the letter I. At this point I raise a vertical 
and give it a height equal to }{ the width of the rectangle. 
Mark this point J . 

Join A to J by a straight line and J to F first by a dotted 
straight line then by a curve running above the middle of the 
oblique 5 mill. 

The outlines A J F H B show the pattern for the back of the 
drawers, to cut the pattern the paper is folded on the line A B 
and cut double on the outlines A J F H B, then the paper is un- 
folded and recut on the line A G F. 

Children's drawers are all cut on the same principles what- 
ever the age but a pattern cut as above for a young girl twelve 
years old will have quite a dift'erent appearance as naturally they 
grow faster in length than they do in width. 

The slit on each side must be left on the line A B and have 
a length equal to 3^ the second measurement starting from A. 

The front waist band is cut from a straight band equal in 
length to half the third measure. 

The back waist band is cut the same as the front one unless 
running strings are used in that case the band will be 1 cent. wide. 



60 



'ike Art of Dress Making. 



CHILD'S APRONS. 

Aprons are made of many different patterns and shapes. 
They are mounted on yokes or shoulder pieces, high or low necked, 
plaited or shirred. Others are mounted on plain narrow bands 
forming a square open necked. Others again are plaited or 
shirred from top to bottom and held at the waist by a fancy waist 
band. 

Whatsoever the shape of the apron desired, it must be cut 
with one of the two patterns already explained, the dress pattern 
or the chemise pattern. 

APRON WITH A BODICE. 

Fis; 67. 



To make the pattern of the apron 
represented by lig. 67, cut the material 
the height necessary for the bodice of 
the ajpron (from the shoulder to the 
waist). This piece of cloth will then 
be plaited in small groups of 3 or 5 
plaits, till the necessary width, for the 
front, is attained. The two back 
pieces will be prepared in the same 
manner. (The back of the pattern is 
in two pieces, as the apron must be 
fastened at the back.) 

When these three pieces are ready 
as explained, take the front part and 
fold it in two, exactly in the middle of 
a group of plaits or insertion if any 
have been put in. Then the pattern 
of the dress is laid over it, taking care 
to place the front edge of the pattern one centimetre from the 
edge of the material, as th^ apron must be wider than the dress. 




Flo-. 67. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



61 



The material is then cut as is done for an ordinary dress but less 
curve is given to the seam under the arm. 

The same thing will be done for the back. The back pattern 
of the dress will be pinned on the two pieces prepared for that 
purpose leaving them one centimetre larger in the middle 
of the back, then the neck curve will be cut of the desired 
shape. 

The skirt is made of a straight piece shirred and served on 
to a waist band. If sleeves are required they are cut as the 
chemise. 

APROM WITH A YOKE. 



Fis: 68. 




Fio-. 68. 



To trace the pattern of an 
apron mounted on a yoke, 
take the yoke pattern de- 
scribed for a dress suitable 
to the age of the child. The 
bodice of the apron will be 
cut by adding ten centi- 
metres to the front width, 
also ten centimetres to the 
back. This surplus in 
width is a matter of taste 
if more or less shirring is 
wanted. The slit of the 
apron is at the back, con- 
sequently the back is cut 
in two pieces. A waist 
band finishes the shirring 
at the waist. If sleeves 
are wanted, the sleeve pat- 
tern of the chemise will be 
used. 



62 



The Art of Dress Making. 



ANOTHER PATTERN. 



Fi^. 60. 



'^^■■Sb. 




Fig 09. 

paper and on which we 
can trace, with a pencil, 
the height of the band 
wanted, also the band 
for the shoulder piece. 
This is generally 5 or 6 
cent. When the pattern 
is so prepared, it is cut, 
discarding the useless 
surplus. Fig. 71. 

The piece marked A 
will give the half of the 
shoulder piece, and the 
piece marked B the half 
of the front band and the 
back. 



This apron differs very little from 
the preceding one. The shirring at 
the front and back is mounted on 
straight narrow bands of any material 
or embroidery. The best way to cut 
those bands is to take as a base the 
ordinary yoke pattern made out of 




Fijr. 70. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



63 



It must be understood that the front band is cut in one piece 
without seam, and the back band in two pieces. This last one 
will be left a little longer to allow for the 
crossing over and the button-hole. When /\ 

these bands are made of any tissue, the shoul- 
der piece A is placed on the material on the 
right line and cut in one piece without any 
seam on the shoulder. When the bands are 
made of embroidery, give it the shape of the 
pattern by making small darts from place to 
place to give a perfect fit of the shoulder. The shoulder piece 
can also be cut a little longer to allow it to fall over the apron. 
Thus making a trimming of itself as fig. 69. 




Fh: 71, 



SHIRRED APROX. 



Big. 7 



Fig. 72. 

To make the pattern of this 
apron, a height of material suffi- 
cient for the front length, from the 
shoulder to the bottom, is cut from 
the piece. This length of tissue is 
plaited or shirred as desired and 
embroidery insertion put in if want- 
ed. When the piece is so prepared, 
the front pattern of the dress is laid 
over it, taking care to have a plait 
or insertion exactly in the middle. 
Then cut as you would for a dress, 
adding one cent, in width for each 
half. The same thing is done for 
the back and last of all the neck 
curve is cut round or square to suit 
A belt band is put on to hold the plaits or shirrings 




the fancy 
together. 

Aprons can be of as many different shapes as one's imagina 



64 



The Art of Dress Making. 



tion can conceive and it is an impossibility to explain each one, 
but whatever the shape, the fundamental rule to cut them by is 
the dress pattern or the chemise, according to the shape wanted. 



YOUNG MISSES AND LADIES' DRAWERS. 

Fig. 73. 

Ladies' drawers are sometimes 
made very wide at the legs but at 
the waist they are kept of an ab- 
solute tight fit. To avoid all un- 
necessary thickness, the waist band 
is entirely discarded and replaced 
by darts rounding perfectly the 
hips. In that case no shirring is 
required and the waist line is sim- 
ply finished with a hem. Some- 
times also the slit is made at the 
back instead of at the sides, in that 
case the waist line is finished with 
running strings. The pattern and 
the way to cut it is the same in all 
cases. 

Three measurements are i-equired 
to design this pattern : 
1st. The length. 2d. The width. 3d. The size of the waist. 
The width is measured from 15 to 20 cent, under the waist, at 
the widest part of the body. 

To trace this pattern we will use the following measure 
ments: 1st. Length, 70 cent. 2d. Width, 104 cent. 3d. Waist, 
60 cent. 

A — At the point A trace a right angle. 

A B — Give to A B a height equal to the first measure, less 
the height required for a flounce if one is desired. 

A C — Give to A C a width equal to % of the second measure. 




Fig. 



The Art of Dress j\ la king-. 



05 



plus its fifth. On these two measures trace the rectangle A 
BCD. 

C E — From the point C on the line C D mark a distance 
equal to Js of the second measure plus its tenth. Mark it E. At 
this point E, draw outside of the rectangle a horizontal with a 
length equal to the half of A C. Mark this point G. 

F — Mark this point 3 cent, 
under the point C and draw a 
small horizontal on which you 
will mark the point H 2 cent, in- 
side of the rectangle. 

I — Lengthen the line C D 
(under D), of A of B D. Mark 
this point I. 

J— Lengthen the line C D 
(above C) a height equal to H of 
C E. Mark this point with the 
letter J. 

To trace the outlines of the 
back pattern, let in 2 cent, at the 
angle A and join this point to J 
by a line slightly rounded (about 
1 cent.) toward J. 

Join G to J, first by a straight 
dotted line, then by a curve run- 
ning inside about 2 cent, at G and 
meeting the straight line at % of 
the length J G. This line J G represents the seam or back hems. 
Join G to I by a dotted oblique, then by a curve running 
inside 1 or 2 cent, according to the length of the seam. This is 
the side seam. 

Join B to I first by a dotted oblique, then by a light curve 
running Di cent, above the straigl:t line for ladies sizes and only 
1 cent, for j^oung misses. 

The outlines of the front pattern are traced in the following 
manner : Waist— Join H to A by a straight line. Join H to G by 




Fig. U- 



66 The Art of Dress Making. 



a curve crossing the vertical at )% of its height and passing at -3 
of the distance there is between the point E and the back edge J G. 

To cut the pattern, the paper is folded on the line A B and 
cut double over the largest tracing, that is to say on the outlines 
of the back pattern. Then open the paper and recut the front 
on the lines A H and H G. The side opening is made on the line 
A B it has a height equal to the half of C E. 

The figure 74 and the instructions given are for ordinary- 
drawers alwaj'S in fashion all that can vary is the width given to 
it but the proportions for the remainder are always the same. 
When a waist band is desired its height is taken off of the pat- 
tern. The average height of the waist band is 5 cent, in the mid- 
dle of the front and 3 cent, on the sides. Three centimetres are 
also taken off the back as the running strings take that difference 
in height. 

PETTICOAT SKIRT FOR LADIES OR YOUNG MISSES. 

A petticoat can be economically cut out of any cotton material 
having no wrong side. Two lengths of material only are required. 
In those two lengths, the height of a ruffle is not included. The 
ruffle is always cut apart according to its height. 

The apron or front piece and the side pieces are relatively 
narrow and the back seam is cut on the biais. 

In one of those two heights of material we cut the front piece 
also the two side pieces by turning them upside dow^n as shown 
by fig. 76. 

The measures necessary to trace this petticoat are : 1st the 
front length ; 2nd the side length over the hips ; 3d. the back 
li-ngth ; 4th. around the waist. 

It is an acknowledged fact, that the petticoat is shorter than 
the dress, but in measuring it is better to measure from the waist 
to the floor as it is easier to establish correctl}^ the difference be- 
tween the front and the sides. This difference must furnish the 
material necessary to fit properly around the hips. The oversight 
of this rule is the cause that so many petticoats, bought ready 
made, do not give the perfect fit expected from them. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



67 



When the whole length from the waist to the floor is well 
measured it becomes verj' easy to deduct the difference in height. 
An ordinary petticoat generally has a sweep of 10 cent, from the 
floor. 

MEASUREMEISTTS OF AN AVERAGE SIZE. 

1st. Length in front (total to the floor) 107, for the petticoat 97. 
2nd. Side length " " " 111, " " " 101. 

3rd. Back length « " " 110, " " " 100. 

4th. Around the waist 60. 




HOW TO TRACE THE FRONT PIECE. 

Fig. 75. 

The material must be left fold- 
ed in two, at its extremity mark 
by a pointed line a small height 
of 4 or 5 centimetres for the hem 
A. It is easier to start this trac- 
ing at the lower edge A B. Mark 
on this pointed line starting from 
the fold, a distance of 20 cent. 

A C — Height equal to the front 
length (97 cent.) 

C D — Width of the front piece 
at its upper part (9 cent, for the 
half). This is equal to >3 less 1 
cent, of the half of the fourth 
measure. Join D to B by a 
straight line. 

C E — At the point C draw a 
small horizontal and mark the 
point E above this horizontal a 
distance equal to half of the dif- 
erence there is between the front 
and side length, this at one centi- 
metre to the left of D. The upper 



68 



The Art of Dress Making. 



part of the seam must be rounded from E to a length of about 10- 
cent. from the waist. 

In cutting, material must be left for a seam at the waist and 

the lower hem. It is not neces- 
J ■ g I -> sary to add anything for the seam 

E FB. 




Fig. 76. 



HOW TO TRACE THE SIDE PIECES., 
Fig. 76. 

The material having been left, 
folded, it is turned over up side 
down, and the narrow part will 
meet the wider part of the front as- 
shown by fig. 76. 

On the pointed line already traced, 
let in at each edge G and H 1 or 
iy2 cent, so as to have the upper 
seams rounded. In the middle of 
the width G H, a small dart will 
be made I. This dart will have a 
width of 3 to 4 cent, and a length of 
about 12 cent. 

The waist will be raised at the 
points I and H of the second half of 
the difference there is between the 
front and side length. 



C J — Height equal to the front E B. 
I K — Height equal to the side length. 
H' M— Height equal to the side length. 



The Art of Dress flaking. 



69 



HOW TO TRACE THE BACK PIECE. 



Fh 



'7. 



To trace the back piece the material must be open. 

LM -Trace 
a horizontal J^ N" 

line along the 
width of the 
material. 

LN-Width 
at the waist : 
25 cent. 

O P-Width 
at the lower 
edge: 55 cent. 

Join N to P 
by a straight 
line. 

L R-Lower 
the point L 2 
cent, and give 
from L to O a 
length equal 
to the -side H' 
D. 

Indicate on 
the biased 
line the back 
length of the 
petticoat. 

Cut in this 
manner the ^^^' '^'^' 

petticoat has on each side two seams, each composed of a bias and 
a straight line and a seam at the back, this last one is cut on the 
bias on the two sides. 

The waist is yet sufficiently wide^to allow of a running string. 




70 



The Art of Dress Alakmg. 



PETTICOAT 2m. 25 IN WIDTH. 

Fig. 78. 

When the petticoat is wanted wider at the lower part, with 
more shirring at the waist and no seam at the back, three lengths 
of material are needed, taking as a base the longest height. 




Fu 



^ o 

/<!>• 



In this case the width of the front piece will be 45 cent (2254 
for the half), near the floor and 20 cent, at the waist (10^ for the 
half.) The bias seam in the front piece is always raised half of 
the difference there is between the front and side length. This 



The Art of Dress Making. 



71 



seam is rounded at the waist in the manner described in the first 
pattern. 

The side piece will have, at the waist, a width equal to 3 3 of 
the fourth measure, and at its lower part a width of 50 cent. The 
straight line of the piece will be sewed up to the bias of the front. 
At about 10 cent, from this seam a dart will be made from 4 to 5 
cent, in width on 12 cent, in length. 

It must not be forgotten that this seam must be raised of the 
second half of the difference there is between the front and side 
length. 

The petticoat is completed with a straight piece at the back 
the whole width of the material. In case this would give too 
much shirring at the waist, this piece can have a bias of 10 cent, 
on each seam but the lower edge must be left the entire width. 

PATTERN OF A YOKE FOR LADIES' PETTICOAT. 




Fig. 79. 

Ladies' petticoa'ts, as well as skirts, are 
very often mounted on a yoke to prevent 
too much thickness on the hips. To cut 
this yoke we take as a base the size of the 
waist and to make a pattern we proceed as 
follows : 

A — At the point A, trace the right 
angle CAB. 

A D — Starting from A, on the line A 
B, mark the third of the waist measure, 
show this point with the letter D. If the 
size of the waist is 60 cent., 20 cent, will be put from A to D. 

A E — Also from the point A mark on the line A C a distance 
equal to A D less 2 cent. 

When those two points are properly marked, trace the curve 
of the waist with a compass, taking as center a point 2 cent, lower 
than A. 



B! 



Fio: 79. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



To give the width at the bacl<;, the point F runs above the 
line A C, a distance equal to half the height of the yoke. One- 
fourth of this height will do when the person is slim. This rule 
apply to all petticoats. 

This yoke is cut in two pieces, the seam being in the middle 
of the front. In case this yoke is wanted to come very low on 
the hips, it must be cut in four pieces so as to have a chance to 
bias the side seams a little. If cut in two pieces only a small dart 
is made on each side. 

This yoke can equally be used for the front of ladies' drawers, 
but in that case the pattern will stop at the dotted line G, that is 
to say % plus 2 cent, of the waist measure, measured from D. 
The shape of the yoke is left entirely to one's taste, it can be 
round or pointed to please. 

MISSES AND LADIES' ORDINARY CHEMISE. 

To design the pattern of any chemise either for a young girl 
or an adult, six measurements are necessary. 

1st. The back length and total length of the chemise. 

2nd. Half of the back width. 

3rd. Half of the front width. 

4th. Around the bust. 

5th. Around the shoulder — taken over the upper part of the 
arm . 

6th, Around the hips — taken at the widest part of the figure. 

The second and third measure are taken as for a bodice but 
the fifth and sixth are taken very easily. 

When the simplest pattern of chemise is wanted, that is to 
say, when it is cut all in one piece without any seam or button on 
the shoulder. When the upper part is only tightened with run- 
ning strings, the back width is not necessary, but when the 
chemise is cut in two pieces, back and front, separate measure- 
ments are wanted. 

It is also required when the chemise, although in one piece, 
is shirred at its upper part and sewed on to a band, as it gives 
the faculty to divide the shirring equally. 



The Art of Dress Maki^ig. 



73 



When the chemise is fastened on the shoulders, the fifth 

measure is needless as the opening will always be large enough. 

For stout persons it will be well to take the size of the arm-hole. 

PATTERX OF AN ORDINARY CHEMISE CUT IN ONE PIECE. 



Fig. 80. 

To design this pattern we 
will take the following mea- 
surements : "1st, 40 cent. ; 2d, 
lb}4 cent.; 3d, 17^2 cent.; 4th, 
92 cent.; 5th, 108 cent.; 6th, 
109 cent. 

A — At the point A trace 
a right angle. 

A B — Height equal to the 
back length. At the point B 
draw the waist line. 

C — At 14^ of A B, starting 
from A, draw the " carrure " 
line. 

D— At the K of A B, 
draw the bust line. 

A E — Width equal to % 
of the fourth measure plus its 
fifth. As the fourth measure 
is 92, 14: of 92 = 23, and i or 
To of 23 = 4 cent. 6, making a 
total of 23 + 4.6 = 27.6, or in 
round number 27 cent. 3-2. 

The fourth of the fourth 
measure represents % of the 
upper part of the chemise by 
adding its fifth it gives the 
surplus required in width to 
obtain an easy perfect fit. 




F/o: SO. 



74 The Art of Dress Making. 

From the point E draw a vertical parallel to A B stoping at 
the waist line. 

F — Height equal to K of A C, at this point draw a small 
horizontal that will show the height of the shoulder. 

C G — Width equal to the third measure plus its to or \. 

The third measure being IT^^ cent, add 3 cent. 4 or Sj^ 
cent, making a total of 21 cent, from C to G. 

H — At the point G raise a small vertical reaching the shoul- 
der line at the point H. 

H I — Width of the shoulder piece (epaulette) about 4 cent., 
but this width is altogether optional, and it is better to leave it a 
little wider in case the arm-hole requires sloping. 

J — Front slope, this point is placed at or one cent, above the 
point D. Join I to J by a curve. 

K — Place this point 3 cent, above D and trace a curve 
joining the first one immediately above C G. This is the back 
slope. 

H G L — Arm-hole. Follow the vertical H G and join this 
last point to the "carrure" line at the point L. 

A M — Total length of the chemise taken at the upper part 
of the back. If this length has been measured from the slope of 
the shoulder it must be shown starting from the point H . At 
the point M draw a horizontal. 

M N — Width equal to the half of the fourth measure plus 
3 cent. (-'.^ = 46 + 3 = 49). The point N is raised 3 cent to 
curve the lower edge of the chemise. 

L O N — To trace the seam, join L to N by a dotted oblique 
then by a curve passing at the waist line in the middle of the 
space between the oblique and the vertical marked O. The shape 
of the sloping can vary according to taste, sometimes it is kept 
round at the back and pointed in front as shown by the letter 
P. This point is placed about 4 cent, under the point D, this 
gives a larger opening. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



75 



LADIES' DRESSING SACK AND NIGHT GOWN. 

The same explanation will serve for those two garments, as 
both are straight shaped, shirred or plaited and sewed to a yoke. 
The only difference being a little more fullness to the dressing 
sack. However, both can be cut from the same pattern. 

The measurements required are the following ones : — 

1st. Back length and total length of the night gown. 

2d. Half of the back width. 

3d. Half of the front width. 

4th. Half around the bust. 

5th. Half around the neck. 

6th. Length of the arm. 

7th. Around the arm at the shoulder (or arm-hole). 

8th. Front length from the neck to the waist. 

9th. Length under the arm to the waist. 

All these measurements must be taken loose. 

THE SLEEVE. 



Fig. 81. 

Draw the rectangle A B C D, giving to 
A B a height equal to the length of the 
arm, 6th measure. 

A C — Width equal to half of the arm- 
hole, 7th measure. 

C E — Height equal to % of the 7th mea- 
sure, or equal to the half of A C. 

F D — Distance equal to 54^ of B D. 

Trace the arm-hole curve starting from 
A (this point can be raised 1 or 2 cent, if 
the sleeve is wanted to puff a little), passing 
nearly at the middle of A C and joining E. 
Design also the curve of the under sleeve 
from A to E in such a way as to give 3 cent, 
more slope than the upper sleeve and this at about % of the width. 




Fig. 81. 



76 



The Art of Dress Making. 



\ 



The under sleeve is 3 cent, narrower than the upper sleeve 
at its upper part E. 

A wrist band is added if desired. 

BACK PATTERN WITH A YOKE. 



Fig. 82. 

A — Trace a right angle. 

A B I— Give to A B the length 
of the back and to A I the total 
length of the night gown 

D — Bust line at the half of A B. 

A E — Width of the neck curve 
equal to yi of the fifth measure. 
Raise the point E >2 centimetre. 

C F— Half of the back width (2d 
measure), plus 1 cent. 

F G — Height of the shoulder 
equal to A E. 

D H— Width equal to the half of 
the fourth measure. 

C J and I L — Width equal to the 
half of C F. This width gives the 
fullness of the width of the back. 

L M — Width equal to the fourth 
measure plus its fifth. 

N — Place this point 3 cent, above 
the point M. 

Design the back neck curve in 
joining A to E, then the shoulder 
E G, putting this last point 1 cent, 
past the vertical, then the arm-hole, 
starting from the extended point G, 
passing at F and joining H by a 
curve. The point H will be raised 1 cent, above the bust line. 
The seam H N can be kept straight or slightly curved at the 




Fis:. 82. 



The Art of Dress ^lakimr. 



IT 



waist about l}-2 cent., as shown by the dotted line. The line J L. 
represents the middle of the back of the night gown. A C re- 
presents the middle of the yoke. The pattern will be divided on. 
the line J C F. 

BACK PATTERN WITHOUT A YOKE. 
FZ£^. 83. 



When this pattern is want- 
ed without a yoke at the ba(;k, 
trace the pattern as told above 
with the only difference that the 
width added to the middle J L 
will start from the neck curve A 
instead of from the " carrure " C. 
This surplus in the width will 
be used by plaits sewed ver- 
tically from the neck to the "car- 
rure," that is to say, about 10 
cent. To give depth enough to 
those plaits give 10 cent, to C F 
instead of half the " carrure " as 
in the preceding pattern. 

FRONT WITHOUT A YOKE. 



Fig. 84. 

* Fig. 83. 

A — Trace a right angle. 

A B — Width equal to the half of the fourth measure plus its 

tenth. At this point B draw a vertical. 

B C — Height equal to the first measure. 

E— Bust line, at the half of B C. 

D— « Carrure " line at J^! of B C. 




78 



The Art of Dress Alakiiig. 



F— Shoulder line at )i of the height B D. 
A H — Length equal to the first measure plus to of the 
fourth. 

A I — Width of the front neck 
curve equal to the back A E plus 
•2 cent. Raise the point I one 
centimetre. 

A J — Height of the front neck 
curve equal to its width A I. 

I L — Length of the front shoul- 
der 1 cent, shorter than the back 
A G. 

M N — Width equal to the third 
measure. 

H O — Length equal to the back 
B I. 

J P and O R— Width added 
for plaits. This width is vari- 
able according to the quantity 
and depth of the plaits wanted. 

R S — Width equal to the back 
L M. 

Trace as usual the neck curve, 
the shoulder and the arm-hole. 
Trace the seam E S perfectly 
straight and curve the lower 
part of the night gown by giving 
to E S the same length as the 
back H N. 

Trace the front line P R but do not cut the neck curve before 
all the plaits are made. 




Fig. S4. 



The Art of Dress A la king. 



79 



COLLAR FOR LADIES' DRESSING SACK AND 
NIGHT GOWN. 




Figs. 85-86. 

This collar can be used either for a dressing sack, a night 

gown or any other loose gar- 
ment. It is a turn-down col- 
lar and is made of two pieces. 
1st, the band; 2d, the revers 
or part to be turned down. 
To design this pattern is very- 
easy. To begin with the band, 
at the point A trace a right 
7v>. 85. angle, fig. 85. 

Give to A B a width equal 
to half of the neck measure, taken on the garment, plus 1 cent. 

A C — Give to A C the height of the collar band 2y2 cent. 

B D — Raise the point D 1^ cent, above B. 

Draw a curve joining A to D. 

E— Give to A E a width equal to A B less 2 or 3 millimetres. 

To trace the pattern of the revers or turned down part, you 
will draw a right angle at the _ 
point A, fig. 86. 

A B — Height equal to K 
of the neck measure. 

B C — Width (measured 
diagonally) equal to the width 
of the band C E. 

B D— Height of the col- 
lar, 3 cent, at the back. 

C E— Height of front of 
the collar 4^4 cent., but this height varies with fashion. 

To trace the outlines, join B to C by a line slightly rounded 
undei-the middle of the oblique (about 1^ cent.). 




Fio-. 86. 



80 



TJie Art of Dress Making. 



Join D to E by another curve and raise a perpendicular line 
at the end C of the curve B C. 

To put the two parts of the collar together, sew the ledge 
B C of the reverse to the edge C E of the band and the edge A B 
of the band will be sewed to the garment. 

PATTERN OF AN ORDINARY SLEEVE OR SLEEVE 

LINING. 



A 

G 



C 



H 



D 



^ 1 
1 

1 
» 
1 


■f 




\ 


\ *■ 





B 



J 



A — At the point A trace a right 
angle. 

A D — The length of the vertical 
must be about one and a half the height 
of the bodice pattern for which the 
sleeve is made. 

A B — The width to be marked on 
the horizontal is equal to half the 
measure of the arm-hole. Trace a 
rectangle with those two lines. 

C E — Divide the rectangle in twa 
on its length by the line C E. 

B F — Height equal to }( of the arm- 
hole measure or equal to A C. At the 
point F draw a small horizontal. 

A G— Height equal to }^ of B F. 
Mark this height with the letter G 
and design a curve from G to F, pass- 
ing at C. 

To help to trace this curve, a dotted 
oblique can be drawn from G to F, 
then the curve, making it to pass at h' of the space between the 
oblique and the angle B. It is also preferable to bring the point 
F 1 cent, out of the rectangle as it will give a little more width to 
the upper part of the sleeve, but this is not absolutely necessary. 
G H— From the point O, mark on the vertical the length of 
the sleeve to the elbow. Show this point with the letter H. 



7v'-. 87. 



Ihe Art of Dress Ala king. 81 



G H E — To find the point E, take the total length of the 
sleeve to the wrist and starting from G passing at H come to 
meet the line E C. Join G to H by a well marked line and H to 
E in the same manner. The elbow H will be lightly rounded. 

E I — At the point E raise a perpendicular to the line H E 
and run it out of the rectangle 1 cent. 

J — Place this point at the middle of the distance F 1 and 
join those two points by a curve running inside of the rectangle 
a distance equal to 14^ of C B opposite the point J. The under 
sleeve is 3 cent, narrower than the upper part all along the 
elbow seam as well as the inside seam at the points E and I, but 
at the point J it must almost touch the upper pattern. 

K and L — The point K will be placed on a level with the 
point G, that is to say, at the same height. The same will be 
done with the point L and F, then those two points will be 
joined by a dotted straight line and a curve will be traced running 
under the dotted oblique one cent, between the point L and the 
lineCE. 

The pattern is cut on the same principle as the sleeve for 
children's chemise. 



82 



TJie Art of Dress Making. 



PLAIN SLEEVE WITH A WRIST BAND. 



Fio-. 88. 



This sleeve is cut in one piece. The Unes of construction are 
the same as those given above, fig. 87. 
A — Trace the right angle A. 

A B — Will have the same measure 
as in fig. 87, also C A and B F. Trace 
tbe curve of the arm-hole, starting from 
A, passing two cent, above C and finish- 
ing at F. 

Give to the vertical A D the total 
length of the sleeve, less the height to 
be given to the wrist band. 

At the point D trace a horizontal 
the same length as A B. Mark the last 
point H, and join it to B, making the 
rectangle A D H B. On the line H B, 
mark from the point K a distance equal 
1/llth of H F. Mark it I. 

As in fig. 87, the point J is placed 
at half of the distance F I, and a curve 
is traced from F to I, passing inside of 
the rectangle opposite J, a distance equal 
to 14: of A C. 

Join D to I by a straight line. 
The under sleeve is traced in the same way as in the pre- 
ceding pattern as far as the inside is concerned, as well as the 
arm-hole curve, but there is no seam at the elbow. 
The line A D is kept perfectly straight. 

The wrist band is made of a straight band of material folded 
in two in which the sleeve is shirred. 




The Art of Dress Making. 



83 



FITTED SLEEVE FOR LADIES' BODICE. 



Fig. 89. 

This pattern varies from the others in its outlines only. The 
lines of construction are the same. 

UPPER PAKT OF THE SLEEVE. 

A — Trace a right angle and mark it A. 

A B — From A mark on the horizontal half of the arm-hole 
measure. At this point B draw a 
vertical line. 

C — In the middle of A B draw 
another vertical. Mark it 0. 

B D — Height equal to >4 of the 
arm-hole or equal to A C. 

A E— Height equal to ^3 of B D. 

Raise the point C 2 cent. 

Put the point E 1 cent, out of the 
rectangle. 

Put the point D 1 cent, out of the 
rectangle. 

Join E to D by a curve passing at 
the raised point C 

E F— Mark the length of the 
sleeve from the arm-hole to the elbow. 

H G — Distance equal to tV of the 
difference there is between the arm- 
hole measurement and the total length 
of the sleeve. This proportion can be 
used for all the sizes from a child 
three or four years old to the stoutest 
matron's. 

F G — Length of the sleeve from 
the elbow to the wrist. To trace the edge of the sleeve raise a 
perpendicular at the point G. This perpendicuLir runs out of 
the rectangle a distance equal to H G plus 1 cent. 




84 The Art of Dress Making. 

K — At the middle of D J get in the rectangle \ of its width 
and mark the point K. 

Join J to D by a curve passing at K. 

UNDER PART OF THE SLEEVE. 

The under sleeve is narrower than the upper part 3 cent. 
All the length of the elbow seams, that is to say, 3 cent, from E 
to L, from G to N and from F to M. 

It will also be 3 cent, narrower from D to O and from J to P. 
At the point K the difference in width is only ^4 cent. 

OBSERVATIONS. 

When the under sleeve is desired very narrow, it is very 
easy to alter the pattern without any change in the measure- 
ment. All that is necessary is to move the seams by enlarging 
the upper part 1 cent, all the length of the elbow seam E F G 
and diminish that cent, at the under sleeve L M N. Naturally, 
the seam will be more shirred at the elbow. The same modi- 
fication can be made at the inside seam but only in its upper 
and lower parts. The middle must be left as in the first de- 
scription. 

To obtain a good fit, a very important point is to prepare 
the sleeve flat on a table and pull strongly on the upper part 
at the middle of the inside seam at the points D and J. In 
doing so, the upper sleeve will turn easily to meet the under 
part. If the sleeve is well prepared, when it is laid flat on 
the table, the upper part toward yourself, it must not pucker 
and the seams must not be detected. On the contrary, if you 
turn the sleeve the under part toward you, the seams must be 
regular and keep at an equal distance, the cloth must not pucker 
in any way. 



i 



The Art of Dress Making. 



85 



CHILDREN AND MISSES DRESSES BETWEEN THE 
AGES OF 2 TO 15 YEARS. 

It is not necessary to use many measurements in the cutting 
of garments for children of the same age. If a child is larger or 
smaller than his years, it stands to reason that the garment to be 
cut for him is made on a pattern larger or smaller to suit his size. 

At the end of this book, we will give a table of graduated sizes ^ 
to be used between the ages of 2 to 15 years. These measure- 
ments are very exact, and it Avill be found that if these are prop- 
erly heeded, the bother of fitting the garments will be entirely 
dispensed with. 

BODICE FOR A CHILD'S DRESS FROM 2 TO 4 YEARS. 



Fig. 90. 

We will begin 
the series of pat- 
terns by the smaller 
size, from 2 to 4 
years old, and will 
work this one on 
the average size, 
that is to say, 3 
years old. 

O n a 1 a r g e 
sheet of paper, draw 
a rectangle having 
a width equal to 
the 4th measure- 
ment plus 2 cent. 

(half of the bust measure plus 2 cent.) and a length equal to the 
1st measure plus 1 cent, (back length to the waist line plus 1 
cent.) this centimetre is added to obtain the depth of the neck 
curve. Mark the corners of the rectangle width the letters A B 
C D as in fig. 90. Starting from A, mark on the line A D a 




86 The Art of Dress Making 



distance equal to 3^ of this same line, mark this point with the 
letter E and draw the horizontal E F. This horizontal is the 
" carrure " line. 

At the half of A D mark the point G, and draw the horizon- 
tal G H. This horizontal is the bust line. 

The line D C is the waist line. 

Lengthen the line B C a distance equal to its tV- Mark this 
point I. At the point I, draw a dotted horizontal. 

Starting from E, mark on the line E F, the 2nd measure- 
ment (half width of the back). Mark it J. 

Starting from F on the line F E, mark the 3rd measurement 
(half of the front width). Put the letter K. 

At the points J and K, raise two vertical lines. 

A L — Width of the back neck curve equal to ,S of the 7th 
measure (half around the neck). 

B M — Depth of the front neck curve equal to A L. 

B N — Width of the front neck curve equal to A L plus 2 cent. 

On the vertical at the point J, mark a height equal to A L 
less 1 cent. 

P — Shoulder line. This line is parallel to A B and E F, and 
is drawn at li the distance there is between these two lines, 
near A B. 

R — Depth of the arm-hole curve. This point is placed one 
cent, under the bust line, in the middle of J K. To have the 
depth of the back neck curve, mark 1 cent, under the point A on 
the line A D. Join this new point to L, running above the hori- 
zontal 14 cent. To trace the back shoulder seam, join L to O by 
a straight line running past the vertical J O '^4 cent. To trace 
the back arm-hole, join the extended point O to J by a curve, 
continue the line nearly straight a short distance, tlien accentuate 
the curve to join the point R. 

Front neck curve. Join N to M by an accentuated curve. 

Front shoulder seam. Starting from N, measure obliquely, 
running to join the line P a length ^ cent, smaller than the back 
shoulder L O. 

Front arm-hole. Join P to R by a curve passing at K. To 



The Art of Dress Making. 



help in the drawing of the whole arm-hole line, always remember 
that this curve must present the shape of an egg. 

To trace the waist follow the line D C as far as the side seam 
S, then prolong as far as I by a line slightly curved. This side 
seam is placed either in the middle of the arm-hole R S or a little 
further back. In the first case the seam is straight as shown by 
the dotted line R S. 

When it is wanted a little further back it starts from the 
arm-hole at about the middle of the distance there is between J 
and R and finishes at the waist line at about Vz of the width of 
the rectangle as shown by the dotted line T. 

If a side piece is wanted the side seam is placed a little in 
front of the middle of the arm-hole as shown by the dotted line U 
and the side piece will be the space there is between the lines 
T and U. 

The upper part of the front is rounded a little about 7 or 8 
mill, at the point M, decreasing as it joins the point H. 

BODICE FOR A CHILD'S DRESS FROM 5 TO 8 YEARS. 




The fig. 91 repre- 
sents the pattern of 
a bodice of a dress 
for a young girl 
seven years old. 
Very little differ- 
ence will be found 
with the preceding 
design. 

Trace the rectan- 
gle A B C D in the 
same manner as for 
the fig. 90, giving it 
the size required 
for a child of seven 
years, that is to say 



The Art of Dress JSIaking. 



a height equal to the first measure plus 1 cent., and a width equal 
the seventh measure plus 2 cent. Draw the " carrure " line at 
its proper place, that is at K of the height of the rectangle E F, 
also the bust line at the half of the height of the rectangle G H. 

Let in the point D J^ cent, inside of the rectangle and mark 
this new point D'. This is to curve the waist slightly. Lower 
the point A 1 cent, for the depth of the neck curve and join this 
lowered point to D '. This will be the back seam. 

I — Lengthen the line B C of its -^-^ 

E J — Width equal to the fifth measure (half the back width) 
at the point J raise a vertical. 

F K — Width equal to the sixth measure (half of the front 
width). 

A L — Width of the back neck curve=to 3^3 of the ninth mea- 
sure. 

B M — Height equal to A L plus 1 cent. 

B N — Width equal to A L plus 2 cent. 

J O — Height equal to A L less 1 cent. 

P — Trace the shoulder line at )i, the distance between the 
lines A B and E F. 

Design the outlines of the pattern starting from the back 
neck curve A L, next the back shoulder L O running past the 
vertical ^ cent. Draw the front neck curve and front shoulder. 
All those lines must be drawn with the same rules applied to the 
previous pattern. 

Design the arm-hole either by using the fourth measurement 
V X or by lowering 1 cent, under the bust line. 

D' K — Back width at the waist line equal to to o^ the 8th 
measurement plus 3 cent. 

S — Place this point 1^ cent, under the point J then join S 
to R first by a dotted oblique then by a curve running off 7 or 8 
mill, to the left of the oblique. 

R U — Cambering or distance required between the back and 
side piece to camber the waist 1 cent. From this point U trace 
a curve joining the first one R S at the bust line T. 

U V — Width of the side piece at the waist equal to % of the 
the measurement less 1 cent. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



89 



The width of the side piece measured on the bust line from 
the curve T to the point X is 1 cent, smaller than it is at the 
waist. 



BODICE FOR A YOUNG GIRL'S DRESS FROM 9 TO 12 

YEARS. 

F'ig. 02. 




Fig. 92. 

This pattern does not differ a great deal from the two pre 
ceding ones. 

Trace the rectangle A B C D with the measurements ap- 
propriate to twelve years, that is to say, with a height equal to 
the first measurement plus 1 cent., and a width equal to the 
seventh measurement plus 2 cent. 



90 The Art of Dress Makitig. 



Place the " carrure " line and the bust line each at their 
proper place EF and G H. 

D D' — Camber of the back waist 1 cent, instead of ^ cent. 
in the previous pattern. 

C I— Equal to 1-10 of B C. 

E J — Equal to the fifth measure. 

F K — Equal to the sixth measure. 

A L — Equal to H of the ninth measure. 

B M — Equal to K of the ninth measure plus 2 cent. This is 
1 cent more than the previous pattern. 

J O — Height equal to A L less 1 cent. 

p — Shoulder line drawn as in the previous pattern. 

N P — Front shoulder % cent, shorter than L O. 

D' R — Width of the back waist equal to 1-10 plus 2 cent, of 
the 8th measurement. 

S — Place this point 1 cent, under the point J. Join S to K 
by a dotted oblique then by a light curve. 

R U — Distance required between the back and the side piece 
to give the cambering : Wz cent, or }i cent, more than D D'. 

U V — Width of the side piece at the waist equal to }i of the 
8th measure less 1 cent. Raise the waist .^^ cent, at the point V. 

T X — Width of the side piece at the bust line equal to U V 
less 1 cent. 

V X — Height of the side seam, 4th measurement. 

At the point V leave between the side piece and the front a 
distance equal to R U or IM cent. 

Y — Place this point at the half of the front width, that is to 
say in the middle of the distance there is between the side seam 
and the front edge. The height of this point is about the middle 
of M I. 

The opening of the dart Y Z can vary. Measure the differ- 
ent parts of this pattern on the waist line and if found too wide 
the exceeding width is taken off in the dart. 

The waist can exceed the proper measure 1 or 2 cent, with- 
out inconvenience. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



91 



BODICE PATTERN FOR A YOUNG GIRL 13 TO 15 
YEARS OLD. 

The following tracing and its explanation shows how to make 
the bodice pattern for a young girl nearing woman's size. For 
children and very young girls the bodice of the dress generally 
stops at the waist and the whole pattern is made in one piece. 
For older girls, the skirt is made separately and it requires the 
bodice to be made a little longer. This is done by adding a small 
basque that slips under the waist band of the skirt. 

The back and side piece are drawn together and the front 
pattern is traced separately. 



TRACIXG OF THE BACK AND SIDE PIECE. 

Fig. 93. 

At the point A trace a right angle. 

On the vertical starting from A, mark the 
V>ack length plus 1 cent. Mark this point 
with the letter B. 

At B trace the horizontal that will be the 
waist line. 

Starting from A, at >4 of the line A B, 
trace the "carrure" line. Mark it C. 

At the middle of A B trace the bust line. 
Mark it D. 

On the waist line, camber 1 ^- cent, at the 
right of B and show the new point with the 
letter E. 

Lower the point A 1 cent, to F, this to 
design the neck curve. 

A G — Sliow on the top horizontal the 

width of the neck curve equal to ^% less 1 cent, of the ninth measure. 

Join F to G by a light curve. Join F to E by a straight line. 

CH — Mark on the "carrure" line the fifth measure and 

show this point with the letter H. At II raise a small vertical. 




Fii-: 9J. 



92 The Art of Dress Making. 



H I — Height ^- cent, smaller than A G. Show it with the 
letter I 

G I — Join the neck curve G to the arm-hole I by a straight 
line running past I }i cent. Join this point to H by a light 
curve. 

E J — Width equal to tV plas 1 cent, of the eighth measure. 

K L J^-Mark the point K ^2 cent, under the point H, to ob- 
tain the curve, place a rule on the points K and E, then mark 
the letter L at the point of intersection of the rule and the bust 
line. It is then very easy to trace a curve joining J to K passing 
by L. 

O — Place the rule at Js of the shoulder G I (near G), let it 
pass at the waist E, and follow the rule for 8 or 10 cent, under 
the .waist line B. 

p — Place your rule at the shoulder G, make it to pass at 
the waist J and follow the rule for 8 or 10 cent, under this 
last point then you will have the skirt or basque of the bodice 
EJOP. 

SIDE PIECE. 

J J' — To design the side piece, mark on the waist line start- 
ing from the point J a camber of 2 cent, mark this new point J 
(this camber is always ^- cent, larger than the one at the middle 
of the back). Join L to J' by a light curve. 

J' M — Width equal to '^i less 1 cent, of the eighth measure. 
Raise the point % cent, above the waist line. 

M N — Length equal to the height of the side, fourth mea- 
sure plus 1 cent. The width of the side piece at it upper part, 
measured from the curve to N is equal to the width J' M less 
1 cent. 

Join K to N by a curve and X to M by a line slightly bent. 
To have the skirt or basque, place the rule at the point L, make 
it to pass at M and prolong 8 or lO.cent. following the rule Mark 
this point with the letter S. Next place the rule at the point K 
make it to pass at the point J' follow the rule for 8 or 10 cent. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



93 



under the waist line and you will have the point R. Prolong the 
line O P as far as the point S and you will have the basque. 

now TO TRACE THE FRONT PART OF THE PATTERN. 
Fig. H. 

At your right, on a sheet of paper, 
place the point A and at this point 
draw a right angle. 

A B — On the horizontal line of 
the angle, starting from A, mark the 
seventh measure less the width of 
the back and side measured on the 
bust line. Show this measure by 
the letter B. At this point B draw 
a vertical the length of which will 
be that of the first measure. Show 
this point with the letter C and 
there draw a small horizontal. 

D — Trace the " carrure " line at 
14 of B C. 

E — Trace the shoulder line at K 
of BD. 

A F — Width of the neck curve 
equal to the back neck curve A G 
plus 2 cent. 

A G — Depth of the neck curve, 
same as A F plus yi cent. 

F H — Length of the shoulder seam, equal to the back 
shoulder G I less 1 cent. 

J I — Width of the half front or sixth measure. 
C M — Distance equal to 1-10 of the camber at the waist, that 
is to say equal to 1-10 of the difference there is between the 
seventh and eighth measure. 

M L — Length equal to the fourth measure plus 1 cent. 
O — Height of the front waist. To find this point we must 
not forget that the measure was taken from the nape and that 




94 The Art of Dress Making. 



we will have to deduct from the measure taken the width of the 
back neck curve A G. Starting from F we will measure the 
remaining length and that will give the point O. We will draw 
a horizontal at this point O. 

p — At the half of the height G O draw a horizontal line that 
will mark the height of the dart. 

P R — Distance from the front edge to the top of the dart 
equal to M of the front width I J. At the point R draw a dotted 
vertical running 8 or 10 cent, further than the waist line. Join 
F to G by the regular neck curve. Curve also the upper part of 
the front line by letting in % cent, at the left of G (to the point I). 

Join H to J by a slight curve and J to L by an accentuated 
curve running about 1 cent, under the horizontal as shown by 
the letter N. 

Join L to M by a line nearly straight. 

Before we can spot the dart, we must measure the waist line 
of all the parts of the pattern (the back E J, the side J' M and the 
front from M to O) we will add those three widths together and 
from the total we will deduct the eighth measure, the difference is 
the width that must go in the darts. Divide this width in two 
and give half of it to the dart T and the other half to the dart X. 

For the dart T, show on the waist line the width of the dai-t 
half on each side of the dotted vertical and design it by joining 
these two points to the letter R already marked. The lower part 
S is 1 cent, narrower than it is at T. 

For the second dart place its extremity U in the middle of 
the distance there is between the side seam and the point R (2 or 
3 cent, higher than H). Place the point X in the middle of the 
distance there is between the side seam M and the first dart T 
and also at the half of the height there is between C and T. 
Draw a dotted vertical from N to X passing this point 8 or 10 
cent. Mark the width of the dart half on each side of the vertical 
and design it by joining these two points to U. The lower part 
will meet at the point V to allow all the width possible on the hips. 

To design the skirt or basque place the rule at the points F 
and M and give it a length of 8 or 10 cent, to the point Y. The 
length of the basque must be the same all around. 



The Art of Dress Making. 



95. 



SKIRT FOR CHILDREN AND YOUNG GIRLS FROM 
2 TO 15 YEARS OLD. 

For very young children the skirt is made absolutely round 
and the measurements required are few in number, only the waist 
measure and the length are necessary. As the child grows older 




the measure around the hips and the side length are added and 
last of all for young misses, the back length is taken making in 
all five measurements : 1st, the waist ; 2nd, the hips ; 3rd, the 



9(5 The Art of Dress Maki)2g. 



front length ; 4th, the side length, and 5th, the length at the 
back. 

The tracmg given here fig. 95 can be used for children from 
2 to 15 years old by following the measurements given for each 
age in the table at the end of this book. 

A — At the point A trace a right angle. 

A B — Height equal to Vi of the difference there is between 
the entire waist measurement and the entire hip measurement. 
At the point B draw a horizontal. 

A C — Width equal to half of the waist measurement, plus 
its fifth, plus 10 cent for the shirring or plaits at the back of the 
skirt. Mark this point C. 

With this two measures draw the rectangle A B CD. 

Raise the point C 2 cent, and mark this new point C. 

E — Place this point at the half of B D. 

E E'— Height equal to the difference there is between the 
front and side length, (this only at and after 5 years.) 

B F — Give to this line the front length. 

E G — Show the side length, and place the point G at a dis- 
tance equal to twice B E, from the point F. 

C H — Show the back length with the letter H. It leaves 
only to determine the width of the skirt at its lower edge. 

For the half of the skirt the minimum width is equal to the 
whole of the tenth measurement, that is to say the width from F 
to H is equal to the tenth measure. The edge of the skirt F G 
H must be rounded evenly. 

When the general proportions are well established it leaves 
only to show the place of the seams. See the fig. 95. 

Apron or front piece. — To design the half of the apron we 
will measure on the waist line from B to K, 34 of the eighth 
measure. - At the bottom of the skirt F L give twice the width 
given at the waist B K. Join K to L by a straight line that 
will show the seam. At the upper part of this seam (at the 
waist) a small dart will be made 2 to 3 cent, in width on a 
length of 5 cent. 



1 



The Art of Dress Making. 97 



On the side E another dart will be made from 4 to 5 cent., 
according to the size of the hips. For children up to seven 
years it is preferable to shir the waist. 

Side piece — To have the width of the side piece divide in 
two equal parts the distance there is between L and H, place the 
point I. At the waist place the point M at the % of the distance 
C K. Join M to I by a straight line that will show the seam. 
A dart will also be made at the upper part of this seam. 

Trace the curve of the waist line line K E M C. 

To determine the width of a square skirt the measure around 
the hips is taken plus 10 or 12 cent, but this surplus is left en- 
tirely to the necessity of fashion. 

STAND UP COLLAR FOR YOUNG GIRL'S DRESS. 

Fig. 96. 

The only measurement necessary to trace this pattern is the 
9th measure or half of the neck curve. 

Trace the rectangle A B C D, giving to it a width equal to 
the half of the measurement around the neck plus 1 cent, and a 
height of about 7 cent. 

Starting from D on the A^ *^_ . " 

line D A, show a height of 4.^2 . ; l' ^___;_,j— -"-""''^ \'. M 
cent, and draw a horizontal I """ .-■^,>^''7 

line L M. -^_ ,:.::-^-'''^''^ _ : 

Lower the point M 1 cent. D D' C 

toward C and mark it Z. j^-^^ qq 

On the line B A, let in 2 .^ • • 

cent, to the left of B. Mark this point with the letter O. 

Join O to Z by a straight line. 

On the line L M, show 4'j cent, to the right of L and mark 
this new point L'. 

Join L' to O first by a dotted straight line then by a curve 
running half cent, under the middle of the oblique. 

On the line D C show 4'i cent, to the right of D and mark 
this new point D'. 



98 



The Art of Dress Making. 



Join D' to Z first by a dotted straight line then by a curve 
running under the middle of the oblique }i cent. The lines L O 
Z D are the outlines of the pattern or of half of the pattern as we 
took the half of the neck measure. To cut this collar the mater- 
ial is folded in two and the line D L of the pattern laid on the 
fold. This will not do when the material is striped, in that case 
each half of the collar is cut apart in such a way as to have the 
stripes meet properly at the back seam. To obtain this the pat- 
tern is laid on the bias of the material and the first half is cut, 
then this first half is in turn laid on the material in such a way 
as to have the stripes meet exactly the right side on the right 
side then the second half is cut. 

The lining is cut the same way as the material, between the 
material and the lining a piece of stiff tissue is put in to keep the 
collar straight. This piece is cut with the same pattern but kept 
a little smaller on three sides that is to say no material must be 
left only on the side to be sewed to the bodice. 

When the collar is well prepared it is laid on the bodice the 
right side on the right side, the back seam of the collar meeting 
the back seam of the bodice and then sewed properly. 

JACKET FOR CHILD BETWEEN 4 TO 12 YEARS. 




Fiq. 97 



Fig 97. 

This jacket is cut nearly straight. 
It is made with very little camber at the 
back and without side pieces. 

When a sailor collar is added it is 
called "Sailor jacquet." When it is made 
double breast with a turned down collar 
it is simply called tailor coat. 

When the sack coat is in fashion, it 
is made without the seam in the middle 
of the back and it hangs straight like a 



The Art of Dress Making. 99 

man's coat. The bicycle coat for women is cut in a like manner. 
The measurements necessary to cut this garment are the 
following : — 

1st. Length of the back to the waist and total length of 
the jacket. 

2dc1. Length from the nape (back of the neck) to the front 
waist. 

3rd. Height under the arm. 

4th. Half of the back width. (" Carrure " of the back.) 

5th. Half of the front width. (" Carrure " of the front.) 

6th. Half around the bust. 

7th. Half around the hips. 

8th. Around the arm-hole. 

9th. Half around the neck. 

These measurements are taken tight as for a bodice and then 
increased proportionately to enable the coat to fit easily over the 
dress. 

Nothing is added to the back length either to the length of 
the side piece. 

One centimetre is added to the length from the nape to the 
front waist. 

To the fourth and fifth measurements ^ cent, is added. 

To the sixth measurement 3 cent, are added 

To the seventh measurement 7 cent, are added. 

To the eighth measurement add 2 cent. 

For all coats made without side pieces, do not be surprised 
if in drawing the arm-hole curve it seems to be too high propor- 
tionately to the width. 

You will also notice in the drawing of the pattern that the 
point of the front arm-hole V runs up sensibly above the back 
arm-hole K. This must be so because on the child the fullness 
of the basque will by itself fall over the hips and will carry with 
it the front arm-hole in its proper place opposite the point K. 

LofC. 



100 



The Art of Dress Making. 



Slightly stretch the arm-hole, which will help to force the fullness 
under the arm. 

PATTERN OF THE BACK. 



Fig. 98. 

Trace the right angle X A Z. Give to A B a height equal 
to the length of the back to the waist, 1st measure, plus 1 cent., 

at the point B draw 
a hoi'izontal. It is 
the waist line. 

C— At the i^ of 
A B, draw the " car- 
rure" line. 

D— At the 14 of 
A B, draw the bust 
line. 

B E— Camber at 
the middle of the 
back 1 cent, 

A F — Depth of 
the neck curve 1 
cent., join F to E 
by a line which will 
be the back seam. 

A G— Width of 
the neck curve 
equal to Is of the 
ninth measure. 
The point G must be raised ^ centimetre above the horizontal 

line. 

C H — Width equal to the fifth measure. 

H I — At the point PI, draw a vertical line from the collar 
line to the waist I. 

H J — Height 1 cent, smaller than A G. 

K— At half of the distance there is between the " carrure " 




Fig. 98. 



The Art of Dress Making. 101 



line C and the bust line D, draw a small horizontal then join F 
to G by a curve, G to J by a straight line running past the ver- 
tical 1 cent ; starting from that extended point, draw a curve 
that will join the vertical at the point H and the small horizontal 
1 cent past the point K. 

At the waist I, let in 1 cent, to the left of the vertical and 
trace a slight curve joining K. 

Trace the basque by placing the rule at the neck G, passing 
at the point E, follow the rule till you get the total length of the 
jacket L. Then prolong the vertical H I a length equal to E L, 
that will give you the point M, which you will join to the point 
L by a slight curve. 

TRACING OF THE FRONT PATTERN. 

• Fig. g8. 

Prolong the collar line, the " carrure " and the bust lines. 

A A' — Width equal to the tenth measure plus 6 cent. At 
the point A', draw a long vertical line. 

A' F' — Height of the neck curve equal to the back neck 
curve A G. 

A' G' — Width of the neck curve equal to its height A' F' plus 
3 cent. Raise the -point G' 1^ cent, above the horizontal. 

r — Shoulder line. This line is drawn at Vi of the space 
there is between the collar line and the "carrure." 

J K — Width equal to the sixth measure. 

M N- -Width equal to the seventh measure, (we must not 
forget that the seventh measure has been increased 3 cent.) less 
the width of the back measured on the bust line. This width is 
shown on the fig. 98 by an ondulat'ed line. 

V — Twelve centimetres under the waist line, trace a dotted 
horizontal that will run across the whole pattern. This line 
shows the height at which the tenth measure should be marked. 

JP O — Width equal to the tenth measure (which has been 
extended 6 cent.) less the width at the back. 



102 The Art of Dress Makhig. 



P R — Place the rule at the point P, make it to pass at 
the point N and trace a line running up to the " carrure " 
line. 

S — Place the point S exactly in the middle of the distance 
R K. 

S T — From the point S draw a vertical running as far as 
the waist line. 

U — To obtain this point, which represents the height of 
the waist at the side, place the square on the line R R in such 
a way as to form a right angle, stopping at the point T. 

U V — Height equal to the back I K. 

T W — Height equal to the fourth measure. 

U Y — Length of the basque equal to the back I M. 

X — Height of the waist in the middle of the front. To 
have this point correctly we must deduct the back neck curve 
F G and start from the point G'. 

X Z — Length of the basque equal to the back E L. 

To trace the outlines of the pattern, join the point G' to 
F' by a curve, next join G' to I by a straight line 1 cent, 
shorter than the back shoulder G J. 

For the arm-hole trace a curve starting from F, passing at 
K and W to stop at V. 

The side seam is traced by a light curve starting at V, 
running off ^^ cent, to the left of N, passing at the waist U 
and following the straight line as far as Y. 

Trace the lower edge by joining Y to Z by a curve. 

To trace the front edge, let in 1 cent, to the left of F' and 
round the upper part of the front as far as the point M and 
follow the straight line as far as the point Z. 



The Art of Dress Makitig. 



103 



SAILOR COLLAR FOR THE CHILD'S JACKET. 




Fig. gg. 



Figs, gg and lOO. 

The following explanation will serve for all sailor collars 
either for ladies or young girls, even for 
boys, and that on all garments where 
such collar can be put on. The collar 
is made either separately or is a part of 
the jacket itself. In this last case the 
front of the under part of the collar is 
left in the material of the front of the 
jacket. The back part of the under collar 
is made of another piece of material and 
there is a seam across the collar. 

The fig. 99 shows the under collar. 
The parts marked 1 are the parts cut 
with the front of the jacket. The part 2 
is added. 

"When the front of the jacket is traced as explained above, 
show by a point A in the figure 101, the height at which you 
want the jacket to button. This height 
is absolutely facultative. For this model 
we will place it at about the middle of 
the collar curve F and the waist. When 
this point A is at its proper place, trace 
a horizontal. 

Draw a dotted oblique from this 
point A to the neck curve G. The collar 
will be folded on this line. 

D — Place this point at 3 3 of the 
height F A and draw a horizontal. 

D E — On this horizontal mark a 
width equal to the front width, measured 
from the point D to the arm-hole. 




Tv'i'-. 100. 



F — At the neck curve draw a small horizontiil. 



104 



The Art of Dress JMaking. 




H— Width equal to the half of D 
E, Join H to E by a straight line 
and E to A by a light curve. When 
the front will be properly cut, fold 
it on the line G A and the point of 
the collar E will then be at the point 
C. This gives us only the front part 
of the collar and we want the other 
part which covers the shoulders and 
the back as shown by fig. 102. 

To design it join on a large sheet 
of paper the back and front pattern 
as shown by the dotted lines fig. 102. 
Then starting from the side of the 
collar already cut, trace a curve 
following the arm-hole 1 cent, on 




JF'/o: 101. 

the outside of it. 

The height of the collar 
at the back is equal to its 
width, it is to say, equal to 
the front D E plus 1 cent. 

When the height and the 
width of the collar are pro- 
perly marked, we will close 
it by tracing a right angle 
with the square. 

In the fig. 102, the front 
part of the collar is marked 
1 and the piece that is added 
making the back of it is 
marked 2 . The dotted curve 
between the two shows the 
seam. 

The fig. 100 shows the whole upper part of the collar. It must 
be well understood that the under collar alone is in two pieces]jand 
the lining also, but the upper part is cut all in one piece. 



The Art of Dress Making, 



105 






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1 



The Art of Dress Making. 109 



These tables complete the first part of this work. Being 
made with the greatest accuracy they will be found of great 
utility and a great help for the persons not knowing the exact 
way to take the measurements. 

With the measurements given here, any child of normal pro- 
portions can be dressed without the bother of trying on, but it 
must not be forgotten that the rules given in these lessons apply 
only to the making of the flat pattern, as for the trimming and 
ornamental part of the garment, this is left entirely to one's own 
taste. 

The second part of this work is now in preparation. It will 
contain all that is necessary to know for the confection of any 
lady's garment. How to take the measurements, and explain 
the absolute necessity of each of them. A complete study of 
all conformations from the most perfect to the most irregular. 
Ladies' Bodices in all their forms. Blouses, Matinees, Bolero, etc., 
etc., also Cloaks, Jackets, Mantles of every description, and all 
the numerous details of ladies' costume. 



1488 388 






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SEPT.-OCT. 1986 







LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




